Jump to content
SAU Community

When your Brakes Break

Targa Tom
 Share

Recommended Posts

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted

Funny thing about motorsport... NO warranty!!!

Follow all the tempering rules you ever learned and know to work, 3 days into a realy tough event and thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...

Not just one but two cracks on each rotor.

These are sold as high performance.... I forget what brand they are!

Guess I need a bias bar and some days testing now. More power is good, pulling it up is a problem!

TT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40587-when-your-brakes-break/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

EEEKKKK!!! That cant be good! :Oops:

There no good to you now, so id at least send them back to the retailer/manufacturer with a letter stating what happened.

Your not likely to get anything out of them, but at least they will be aware of the limits of their rotors and MAY (?) change the metallurgy or heat treatment they use for that range of rotor...or qualify there claim of high performance ;)

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i popular brand or replacement rotors are they?  the same as i have on the front of my car by the look of the slots, not good.

the slots may be good for cleaning the pads but give a high stress point by going out to the edge of the rotor

No drama with fronts Clint... They are much wider(Thicker - more heat dispersion). And yes, even though I dont work for a brake company, I would say the cracks started in the slots.

Used OEM for rest of the event with no drama.

Redline

I forget what brand they are!

TT

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
the same as i have on the front of my car by the look of the slots, not good.

I know what you mean, i've seen that pattern before somewhere...

And funnily enough the front rotors look the same as to what are set to be going onto my car.

And i aint seen that pattern anywhere else yet....

Are you sure you dont remember TT? Just not saying to be diplomatic?

Even PM me if you like rather than post it openly.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Shoot that's impressive TT, I have never seen a Skyline rear disc do that. Where they hardened? What pads? Same compound front and rear? Do you have an adj pressure (limiting) valve on the rear? Was it showing signs of excessive rear brake bias?

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Shoot that's impressive TT, I have never seen a Skyline rear disc do that.  Where they hardened?  What pads?  Same compound front and rear?   Do you have an adj pressure (limiting) valve on the rear?  Was it showing signs of excessive rear brake bias?

Standard Brake config.. ie no bias adjust, no limit knob, no hydraulic h'brake etc.

Pads in rear ebc green stuff, fnt = Red Stuff (V3) - ebc cant supply RS for rear. Drove on the street for 2-3 weeks. 50 dyno runs, and a day at Baskerville (12 laps). But never servere on brakes - my style tends to be float 'em in rather than stop turn shoot (lack of power dictates that) Then Day 0, 1, 3, and this happened at the end of day 4.

If we keep the car I will go dual with bias adj for next year, and dial it in on the heat paint/infra thermometer.

As for bias indicative symptoms, at the end of symmons plains straights, (damp) it picked up the fronts slightly, without locking the rears.

I don't like the slots to the edge... will use oem style on the rear next time. Unfortunately with the wheel size cannot make enough gains to warrant bigger discs (commercial decision). Thats why we are looking to move to an N1 BNR32.

Oh, and it does it when cooling. They are fine until cooled - maybe in Tassie they cool too quick??

dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

Posted
Posted
Funny thing about motorsport... NO warranty!!!

Follow all the tempering rules you ever learned and know to work, 3 days into a realy tough event and thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...thump...

Not just one but two.

These are sold as high performance....  I forget what brand they are!

Guess I need a bias bar and some days testing now.  More power is good, pulling it up is a problem!

TT

Not a good result Tom.

For those that couldn't work it out from the hints, they are DBA rotors and this is very rare.

If you dont mind emailing me Tom I will replace the discs with new ones if I can get these broken discs back for testing. We take pride in our work and do replace "No Warranty" items if we can't offer a reasonable explanation. You just need to ask the right people... :)

Thanks!

Steve Gavin

Disc Brakes Australia

[email protected]

Whoneedstherapy Veteran

Whoneedstherapy

Posted
Posted
Nice -- good to see a company standing by its products :(

Edit: out of interest, what sort of cost is associated with DBA rotors, and would people recommend the 5000s over the 4000s, etc?

LW.

LW, i'm a big fan of the dba 4000 series after the experience i had with my soarer. It did have a bit of power behind it and after changing to the DBA 4000 series rotor's up front it stopped miles better than before. Stopping repeatedly from high speed was a real option where as before on the standard discs you'd get some bad fade after a few hard stops. If it can stop a tank like that every time without any fuss I'd definately reccomend it for a 32R :) I'll let you know when mine go on which should be sometime in the next month or so.

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not a good result Tom.

For those that couldn't work it out from the hints, they are DBA rotors and this is very rare.

If you dont mind emailing me Tom I will replace the discs with new ones if I can get these broken discs back for testing. We take pride in our work and do replace "No Warranty" items if we can't offer a reasonable explanation. You just need to ask the right people... :(  

Thanks!

Steve Gavin

Disc Brakes Australia

[email protected]

Thanks Steve,

I will email you for details... Even though I didnt expect a replacement, as you can understand - being a relatively low budget operation - we are very greatful. (And I wouldnt have named them)

Every now and then during racing you have a product that for what ever reason does not perform to your expectation. Given the many variables, it is refreshing and almost unheard of to get this response.

For all those wondering, we also run the same model front rotor, without any problems, in fact same car or different car, I will use the same product in Targa 2005...

That is not just because I like the way they do business, but I am convinced they have a good product. (Some top brands sold in Oz are branded - I believe - by dba for their clients).

Regards TT

PS. Yes Gaz, We always roll the car while waiting for time cards etc... even If we have to reverse back to get it. Also you get 200-500 meters of run down, which gives a fair bit of knock off time.

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
Not a good result Tom.

For those that couldn't work it out from the hints, they are DBA rotors and this is very rare.

If you dont mind emailing me Tom I will replace the discs with new ones if I can get these broken discs back for testing. We take pride in our work and do replace "No Warranty" items if we can't offer a reasonable explanation. You just need to ask the right people... :P  

Thanks!

Steve Gavin

Disc Brakes Australia

[email protected]

Well.... That was unexpected!

I'm running 330mm DBA discs on alloy hats with AP Racing 6 Pot Calipers and am about to upgrade to 365mm discs as I've decided to go exclusively 18" wheels for track and road.

With that kind of response and product backing how can I not go for DBA discs again?

Wonderful to see a company back their products like that and genuinely interested in product testing and research.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Nice -- good to see a company standing by its products :D

Edit: out of interest, what sort of cost is associated with DBA rotors, and would people recommend the 5000s over the 4000s, etc?

LW.

5000's are a two piece rotor.

4000's are a single, both are the same 'rotor'

It's just that the 5000 cost more initially, but cost less to replace.

The 4000 are cheaper, but cost more to replace.

Get what i mean?

And DBA Steve, with that comment, my faith in my brakes on the car has been lifted. Definately going to stick with the custom 5000's and the 4000 on the rear (which are there now with no breaks yet :P)

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
5000's are a two piece rotor.

4000's are a single, both are the same 'rotor'

It's just that the 5000 cost more initially, but cost less to replace.

The 4000 are cheaper, but cost more to replace.

Get what i mean?

Certainly do. What sort of cost is involved in the purchase though -- I had a quick look and couldn't actually find any prices online.

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...