Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Vehicle insurance premium rates play major role in determining how much it will cost a person to drive his car in every month. People often end up paying 10% more than what amount they should spend their vehicle insurance.

Are there any more tips to Lower Vehicle Insurance Premium ???? other than searching on Google!!!

depends on who you're with.

I know Just Car dont care if you have an alarm system or immobiliser fitted. While a guy i know who is with Shannons has a garage and he chains/straps his cars down to the concrete floor to reduce his premium.

depends on who you're with.

I know Just Car dont care if you have an alarm system or immobiliser fitted. While a guy i know who is with Shannons has a garage and he chains/straps his cars down to the concrete floor to reduce his premium.

well they wont insure you with out an aus std 3 point immobiliser.

sadly lowering insurance premiums is largely pre-emptive.

Work out what it is going to cost before you purchase and use ur brain. Age and driving history are your two biggest equations, otherwise where u live does matter too.

Beyond that count on the premium rising over time, just like everything else in this world, and count on it rising alot if u f*k up and have to claim.

Now work out if u are comfortable with all this/able to afford that car and insurance.

Pretty simple.

I waited till i was 25 plus before getting a big sportsbike and 30+ before getting a sportscar.

Did i want one earlier? f*k yeah, of course. But did i realise it would have been damn stupid to get one then. Damn straight, so i didnt. I waited until it was a reasonable equation of costs as well as having the money to buy the vehicle outright n not put myself into debt over something unneccesary.

The amount of crew iv met with massive loans just to get a 'fully sik car' and then also having to pay 2k plus a year in insurance astounds me for a multitude of reasons.

Edited by jjman

sadly lowering insurance premiums is largely pre-emptive.

Work out what it is going to cost before you purchase and use ur brain. Age and driving history are your two biggest equations, otherwise where u live does matter too.

Beyond that count on the premium rising over time, just like everything else in this world, and count on it rising alot if u f*k up and have to claim.

Now work out if u are comfortable with all this/able to afford that car and insurance.

Pretty simple.

I waited till i was 25 plus before getting a big sportsbike and 30+ before getting a sportscar.

Did i want one earlier? f*k yeah, of course. But did i realise it would have been damn stupid to get one then. Damn straight, so i didnt. I waited until it was a reasonable equation of costs as well as having the money to buy the vehicle outright n not put myself into debt over something unneccesary.

The amount of crew iv met with massive loans just to get a 'fully sik car' and then also having to pay 2k plus a year in insurance astounds me for a multitude of reasons.

Pretty sad when you let price of insurance stop you form getting the car/bike/anything you want.

Settle with fire and theft, not at fault you will get paid out no matter what. If its a weekend warrior and not driving in constanst heave traffic it would work im your favour.

Even if you do have full comp, SOme prick does a hit an run, Or there not even insured, Your still coughing up your excess to pay for it, ANd half the time the excess is double the price of the damage.

Might aswell not have full comp to begin with, They dont and wont have to pay out if you dont disclose it.

Don't do that.....

If you get involved in an accident, you won't be covered because you broke the agreement.

Thinking outside the square, if some hobby of yours can viably become a profitable business, you're allowed a business car in most cases.

If so, your expenses including insurance, registration, modifications and fuel up to a certain percentage (depending on what you've logged as pertaining to business) becomes tax deductible.

Ideas bubbling up?

Precaution:- Unless your business plan is foolproof, lots of businesses might not survive in this climate.

Pity that Famous Insurance and Guild Insurance who used to insure grey imports, no longer do. Competition has become somewhat limited. ;)

Not really a tip, but the premiums are also largely based on the suburb where your car is kept.

Had an online quote for $2500 premium on my skyline a few years back, I decided to change it to a suburb that was about 15km's away, price was reduced by ~$800 lol.

Might aswell not have full comp to begin with, They dont and wont have to pay out if you dont disclose it.

Don't do that.....

If you get involved in an accident, you won't be covered because you broke the agreement.

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

Ridiculous. The risk/reward is off the charts bad. Save $500-1000, and risk losing $50-80k on the cost of your car, not to mention fraud if you're caught.

I'll stick with full disclosure.

Wouldnet go as far as calling it fraud, It just simply gives them a reason to to pay out, End of they day. They are a busines. They are there to make money and pay wages.

Fair enough theres a few things you can swap over in the event of something happening, But good luck swaping over coilovers if you been hit in any of the corners.....

What is the deal with using coilovers? They need to be welded so not ajustable to be legal?

The legality of them baffles me....

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

Thats all well and good, but what happens when you are carted off to hospital for a week and the car gets towed straight to the insurance assessor's shop

big risk

Females get cheaper insurance,

If your insured for more than one person do the policy in the wife's name, do an open policy where she is te insured but anyone can drive the car.

Market value allot of people pay or but don't realise this doesnt hold the agreed value afte a certain point so became full what your paying for.

Do a defensive driving course and let them know this might help.

If your old enough do a names driver policy or do restricted policy.

Upping your excess can lower the policy by the same amout so your ahead untillyou claim at whih point your no further behind.

Sometimes paying for a rating one pretection can lower your primium and obviously safeguard you if something does happen your not going to get raped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...