Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, looking in my dash as im going to swap my xanavi unit for the standard air con unit. I found some aftermarket wiring and traced it back to this. Anyone know what the white box is and what has been wired into it.

-White box found under far left of dash, just to the left when the glove box is removed.

-Black box found behind the xanavi headunit, with a few metres of blue & yellow cable taped up. (Not connected to anything).

Just curious as to what this could be as it looks aftermarket and wonder what it does. or what it is meant to be able to do

post-96096-0-36485400-1344229518_thumb.jpg

post-96096-0-24030100-1344229523_thumb.jpg

post-96096-0-88473000-1344229527_thumb.jpg

Thanks

Edited by Nadnerb

Any numbers or writing on them? The black box looks a bit like a speed cut defeat for getting rid of the 180km/hr peed limit but tbh could be anything.

Maybe the white box is what is needed for the interior light delay! What are the numbers on it?

Have a closer look at it and see if theres a brand or anything on it, I've found cables to nowhere under my passenger seat, behind my dash and also the cables and transformer for reverse sensors I don't have so there's a good chance whatever it was for has been stripped from your car, oh yeah I also have two on off switches that don't do anything haha

Also not to thread hijack but semi related, my air con unit doesn't function completely, ie if it's on 18 degrees I get coldest air, if i move it one notch to 19 I get air hotter then the fires of hell, and I also have no lights on the bottom row of buttons, could this indicate I had xanavi once and someone has done a half arse job of switching it?

Edited by Chris_Beli

White box on far left of dash is connected to your central locking, I believe its the reciever for your key.

When I installed my immobiliser we had the dash apart under the steering column trying to find a signal from a box on the passenger side.

Annoying.

Hi thanks, yer white box number is 28595 0v005 . I google searched it and found alot of japanese writing, but used google translator and found that;

The White box pictured is the Nissan Stagea keyless computer (translated)

The little black box that has been wired in only has Japanese writing on it, so not sure what it is or does yet, but it looks to be aftermarket add-on.

The black box looks like it has a button on the front from the last picture. Does it look like a card reader?

In the first picture there is something else in the back of the foot well is that connected to any of it and what is it.

The black box looks like it has a button on the front from the last picture. Does it look like a card reader?

In the first picture there is something else in the back of the foot well is that connected to any of it and what is it.

Hey, The thing that looks like a protruding button is just a clip that holds it together im pretty sure. theres no card reader on it either

The thing in the footwell corner is my crossover for the speakers.

Also not to thread hijack but semi related, my air con unit doesn't function completely, ie if it's on 18 degrees I get coldest air, if i move it one notch to 19 I get air hotter then the fires of hell, and I also have no lights on the bottom row of buttons, could this indicate I had xanavi once and someone has done a half arse job of switching it?

I dare say your HVAC controller is playing up. Have you checked the resistance in the globes for your buttons? Mine were fried, replaced them 6 months ago ( genuine P/N: 27545-0N002 for the short ones for the button illumination, & 27545 - 8E100 for the three long ones for the LCD illumination).

Have you tried unplugging them to see what dosen't work. Does the black box wire upto the white box it looks like it has the same colour wires out of each box. And the blue and yellow like like a switch wire. See if there is volts on 1 of them or try touching them together.

Also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...