Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im in the process of my rb25 neo swap and everything is done, its just a matter of wiring and getting it to start up. the r34 engine harness is all set up to plug into the r32 chassis wiring. i cant figure out my my fuel pump fuse keeps blowing. ive gone through three 15amp and one 20amp fuses.

im completely stumped as to why it keeps blowing. it worked fine with the rb20 installed. the only part of the circuit ive tampered with is the ecu fuel pump relay wire on the engine harness and that's now hooked up to were the rb20 fuel pump relay wire was connected to the chassis wiring so it should be fine. the signal voltage seems to be good and everything but after a second or 2 the fuse blows...

any ideas? anyone that's done a rb25 swap run into this problem??

Is there a difference between the way R32's and R34's control the pump? The resistor pack for the fuel pump may be different, I'm sorry I cant be much more help then that but I had a funny feeling there was a difference somewhere there. Not sure if that will be the problem but

i have no idea, and im stumped. everything worked fine before, now with the r34 ecu it doesnt wanna work

im hoping there's someone on here thats put a neo into a r32 and can help me out a bit

Edited by amnash

so after measuring some voltages on the relay pins i think the ecu isnt sending the signal to ground the pump relay. i checked both the r32 wiring and r34 wiring and they are the exact same for the fuel pump. any ideas why the ecu wouldnt be sending the signal?

sdfgfds.png

could someone take a multimeter to there car and read the voltage or resistance on the fuel pump relay pin on ecu? that would be a huge help because then i would at least know what to aim for

well they dont look the same but if you trace the wires, its exactly the same. the pins are in different spot on the ecu plugs but should be doing the same job. it might be the drop resistor your talking about, anybody know where it is?

Get rid of the fuel pump control module for a start. Hard wire the fuel pump negative terminal to ground.

Ignore pin 111 on the ECU. Your only concern is pin 13. This grounds the fuel pump relay. On ignition on it grounds the relay for 4 seconds. When CAS signal is seen the ECU grounds this pin full time. When it isn't grounded you'll see an open circuit/high resistance.

If your fuse is constantly blowing find the short. DO NOT put bigger fuses in, you'll start melting your wiring. Bigger fuses are not the answer to a fuse that keeps blowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...