Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bear in mind it is a bit of a mission to do this at home as you will almost certainly need to take off the hub assembly to press out the existing ball joint bush.

You dont need to take off the hub to press bearings out, simple tool can do it on the car, even if you do need to take hub off its easy to get off no mission lol.

i have one these kits sitting at home waiting to be installed.. i wanna do this at home but my concern is finishing the job over the weekend as i have read its a pain to press out the balljoints

boostn0199: what did u use for the job? how long does it typically take?

ps - i have a small dremel which i was thinking of using to cut of the lip on the balljoint and press it out from that direction - anyone done it this way?

Edited by BWRGTR

Modification of a steering system. Not permissable without engineering.

Hope mine is hard to see under the rear diffuser... Pretty sure they will have a field day with the Decat pipe. Is my fuel system illegal 2?

Under Car, New Exhaust and Fuel System

Edited by RB 30

Take my tip. If it is still in whatever garish colour it came in, take it off and paint it black before crossing your fingers. Will make it much less likely to get spotted. Cops may or may not be bright enough to know whether the car was supposed to have HICAS, but they can sure as f**k tell that a bright orange/blue/red component is not original.

Take my tip. If it is still in whatever garish colour it came in, take it off and paint it black before crossing your fingers. Will make it much less likely to get spotted. Cops may or may not be bright enough to know whether the car was supposed to have HICAS, but they can sure as f**k tell that a bright orange/blue/red component is not original.

True that! I still have a airbox! and a cat some times lol

i have one these kits sitting at home waiting to be installed.. i wanna do this at home but my concern is finishing the job over the weekend as i have read its a pain to press out the balljoints

boostn0199: what did u use for the job? how long does it typically take?

ps - i have a small dremel which i was thinking of using to cut of the lip on the balljoint and press it out from that direction - anyone done it this way?

Basically i made up a mini ball joint puller and pusher so it pushes witha bolt to get it out. For me even if i did it with removings hubs wouldnt take memore than couple of hours.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Do ppl who put these lock out kits in, only do it to improve track performance, or do ppl experience issues with the HICAS on everyday road use?

I've never tracked my car, but I do know that when I engage HICAS on the road, I can take corners up to 20 km/h faster then when it is disengaged.

So just curious as to why do many ppl install lock out kits? I personally think HICAS is excellent, but like I said, never tracked my 34.

Edited by AshR34GTT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...