Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help! I have purchased an R32 GTS25 and am experiencing some engine problems. These problems include; occasional missing, occasional stalling and the occasional hesitation (by which I mean when I am accelerating the engine almost hiccups, it cuts out then comes back in accelerating). I have taken it to the local Nissan Dealership who originally diagnosed it as a faulty CAS. So I got that replaced and it didn't do too much, just made these problems occur less. However they still do occur... So I took it back they performed another diagnostic check and the DTC came back OK....

How do I fix these problems!! They suggested coils (which I replaced with "newer" 2nd ones 2 months ago), Igniter, AFM or the ECU?? Which would be the best plan of attack? Or is there something they missed??

Cheers Rich

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406478-help-rb25de-problem/
Share on other sites

did the coils make any difference at all? there is always the chance that they were no better than the ones you replaced. the ignitor is also worth looking at (if it is a serious 1 r33)

if possible, if you have a mate that also has a r33 you could try swapping parts with his car and seeing if you can isolate the problem part

No cat converter so thats unlikely haha, and no I also replaced the fuel filter about 2 months ago aswell so again unlikely

Yes the coils made a slight difference but I mean it wasn't like it was a game changer as the problem is still there. No, no mate that I could swap parts with, but will look into the igniter as yes it is a series 1 RB25de

iv got a very similar problem wiv my rb30 iv replaced all the same shit including distributor cap and rotor , leads n AFM and the power transistor next 2 the distributor. some1 has mentioned problems with the actual throttle body not sure though. when it plays up can u smell unburnt fuel?? mine stinks of it wen it stars randomly running like shit

If I do (most probably) end up replacing my AFM what would be the best replacement? As am browsing through trademe and to me they are all the same thing just different colours :/

As long as it's green sticker it should be the same. Double check the part number on yours matches the one your buying. 22680-02U00-?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/

  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE:

Now my car doesn't start at all :/ It turns over but doesn't want to start, so I replaced my ignitor and resoldered the joints on my AFM (to try solve the original problem) but nothing changed, it still turns over with no motivation to start. Will be taking it into an auto electrician tomorrow hopefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...