Jump to content
SAU Community

Afm Vs Map

ARTZ

By ARTZ,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

With all the ecus these days available running MAP...Is there benefits to still running AFMs...cause if there is I dont see them...MAP seems like a much more affordable and just as reliable option..as far as I know most new turbo cars run MAP as well now...

Why would people still be suggesting upgraded AFMS when the cost of them can be better put towards a better quality ECU..

Anyway I dont know much about these things so....Learn me something .......... :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Hardly old school vs new school - both have been around for a very long time. It's nothing new at all.

http://www.skylinesa...af-vs-map-ecus/

http://www.skylinesa...ors-vs-afm-ecu/

Just some of the many threads you can find by hitting the search button (there are PLENTY).

PFC/Nistune + AFM is cheaper than (insert brand) ECU + MAP sensor in almost every instance, hence bang for buck it's what people go with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480477
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480528
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480535
Share on other sites
wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though, MAFs aren't the most reliable sensors and i would be inclined to go with MAP for the added reliablity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480539
Share on other sites
pistol-pete Veteran

pistol-pete

Posted
Posted

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

most gtr ones go for around that, bought mine for $750 with a hand controller

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480543
Share on other sites
wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

the power slide (pun intented) is fun but an expensive process

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480546
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

But then 2 afms

$750 + $700

$1450 - still cheaper by what, $400 or so? :)

Anyway this sums it up perfectly:

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though.

I took out the reliability comment about MAF's because lets face it - 10 years before new ones play up really, usually 15 years.

What most people do is purchase 2nd hand AFM's. 6 months later they have issues, it comes as no surprise at all.

MAP sensors are like AFM, just a sensor. So after 10-15 years they'd probably need replacement like all other things.

If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Motec + every sensor under the sun.

See you later $8000++

Silly question really. No-one has an endless budget for 99% of the applications in question on this forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480586
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

AFM compensates for air temp as i said before.

AFM's can max out and/or fail but so can Map sensors

yes but we already solved this for less than 50$ with an IAT sensor...

what are the signs of a failing map sensor...bit of a worry considering mines inbuilt to the ecu...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480607
Share on other sites
GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

I must admitt that compared to my old PFC, my Link G4 feels very good on light throttle applications as well as throttle response.. Dunno if that's placebo effect but I'm very happy with the link...

Got mine for around 1700 from memory with map sensor.

I also like the fact that if I blow off a pipe the car can still get me home without the cough and splutter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480614
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

The feature - yes. The PFC also has that feature.

The physical solenoid - no.

You have to buy it in a lot of cases further adding to the costs in both cases (PFC and non-PFC). So i don't see how that's relevant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480634
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

MAC Solenoid cost me 50$

IAT cost me 40$

So in a nutshell, there really is no difference/benefits between running either MAF or MAP on your average 'line..other than maybe saving a few bucks

So what about big HP applications then, what are they running ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...