Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With all the ecus these days available running MAP...Is there benefits to still running AFMs...cause if there is I dont see them...MAP seems like a much more affordable and just as reliable option..as far as I know most new turbo cars run MAP as well now...

Why would people still be suggesting upgraded AFMS when the cost of them can be better put towards a better quality ECU..

Anyway I dont know much about these things so....Learn me something .......... :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/
Share on other sites

Hardly old school vs new school - both have been around for a very long time. It's nothing new at all.

http://www.skylinesa...af-vs-map-ecus/

http://www.skylinesa...ors-vs-afm-ecu/

Just some of the many threads you can find by hitting the search button (there are PLENTY).

PFC/Nistune + AFM is cheaper than (insert brand) ECU + MAP sensor in almost every instance, hence bang for buck it's what people go with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480477
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480528
Share on other sites

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480535
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

but lets put it a different way...If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though, MAFs aren't the most reliable sensors and i would be inclined to go with MAP for the added reliablity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480539
Share on other sites

ok those threads you linked speak of PFCs for 860$..I hve never seen a new PFC anywhere near that, usually double...

most gtr ones go for around that, bought mine for $750 with a hand controller

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480543
Share on other sites

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

the power slide (pun intented) is fun but an expensive process

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480546
Share on other sites

But then 2 afms

$750 + $700

$1450 - still cheaper by what, $400 or so? :)

Anyway this sums it up perfectly:

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though.

I took out the reliability comment about MAF's because lets face it - 10 years before new ones play up really, usually 15 years.

What most people do is purchase 2nd hand AFM's. 6 months later they have issues, it comes as no surprise at all.

MAP sensors are like AFM, just a sensor. So after 10-15 years they'd probably need replacement like all other things.

If I was to have an ECU that is both MAP and MAF compatible...forgetting about costs....which would you choose and why??

Motec + every sensor under the sun.

See you later $8000++

Silly question really. No-one has an endless budget for 99% of the applications in question on this forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480586
Share on other sites

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

AFM compensates for air temp as i said before.

AFM's can max out and/or fail but so can Map sensors

yes but we already solved this for less than 50$ with an IAT sensor...

what are the signs of a failing map sensor...bit of a worry considering mines inbuilt to the ecu...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480607
Share on other sites

I must admitt that compared to my old PFC, my Link G4 feels very good on light throttle applications as well as throttle response.. Dunno if that's placebo effect but I'm very happy with the link...

Got mine for around 1700 from memory with map sensor.

I also like the fact that if I blow off a pipe the car can still get me home without the cough and splutter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480614
Share on other sites

yes i know most dont have an endless budget but if there is only a small difference like a couple of hundred its hardly a concern in the big scheme of things..

also after your 1450, if you still need a boost controller theres another 3-500$ gone...where alot of the newer ones have all these features inbuilt

The feature - yes. The PFC also has that feature.

The physical solenoid - no.

You have to buy it in a lot of cases further adding to the costs in both cases (PFC and non-PFC). So i don't see how that's relevant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480634
Share on other sites

MAC Solenoid cost me 50$

IAT cost me 40$

So in a nutshell, there really is no difference/benefits between running either MAF or MAP on your average 'line..other than maybe saving a few bucks

So what about big HP applications then, what are they running ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406658-afm-vs-map/#findComment-6480651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...