Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I joined the forum few days back, reading and hoping to find a answer to my Delmer.

I currently am doing a full resto on a 69 dodge phoenix now for over a year and i am needing a break on it, so i decided to buy a cheap skyline and go from there.

Too cut a long story short, I bought a immaculate rolling shell R33 GTS4 and all that it requires is motor, box n ecu, thinking how hard is it to slip an engine n box...........well

After trying to find anything that could help me out, i got totally confuddelled :wacko: ...but from what I have read I have one of the less desirable skylines.

All I would like to do is get the car back running in original set up and everything to work as it was before removal of old motor n box.

Now do i need to find a replacement from another R33 GTS4 or Can i source a RB25DE form another car?

what about ecu? do i use the one from replacement motor or find one from a GTS4?

I need a gearbox, can i use one out of a GTS T or from any other model.

I know some of my questions might be stupid to some but i do apologize, so if anyone can throw me a link, phone number or any advice it would be most appreciated.post-97245-0-73837000-1344527018_thumb.jpgpost-97245-0-77517700-1344527056_thumb.jpg

In my view the GTS4 is one of the more desirable Skylines (poormans GTR). Importantly it is awd.

Ideally you would get an RB26 and GTR gearbox or second best an awd Stagea Neo turbo engine and GTR gearbox or finally a S1 awd Stagea( R33 S2 RB25DET) motor and GTR gearbox. In each case you would need the ecu and loom to go with the motor.

If you really don't want a turbo you would need a Stagea awd RB25DE (fairly rare in Aussie - dime a dozen in NZ) or an original GTS4 engine.

Putting an rb26 in mime, stock box. Or another great option is the neo 25det. Both a straight drop in but custom piping needed, a stud conversion of not already done. You mentioned de motors? Don't want turbo?

Choose Neo before GTR motor. Less fuss, still easy to make power later if wanted, variable cam timing to put some torque into the bottom end. Much cheaper.

But.... be aware that a conversion to Turbo will require a brake upgrade to be legal, means going over the pits etc etc. If you were to drop an original GTS4 motor into it you will have an easier time of getting it back on the road.

Gts4 came factory turbo, no need for engineer cirt at all.

Not quite true. If it was an NA, then it will have NA brakes. You cannot legally put a turbo in without upgrading brakes. In SA, that means at a minimum it has to go to Regency for ID and roadworthy inspections in order to "complete" the engine swap - no engineer required, but the inspection is compulsory. In some other states, a brake swap is a trigger for an engineer's report, even if other versions of the same car had the required brakes.

Even an RB25DET into R32 (from RB20DET starting point) requires the R33 brakes.

In my view the GTS4 is one of the more desirable Skylines (poormans GTR). Importantly it is awd.

Ideally you would get an RB26 and GTR gearbox or second best an awd Stagea Neo turbo engine and GTR gearbox or finally a S1 awd Stagea( R33 S2 RB25DET) motor and GTR gearbox. In each case you would need the ecu and loom to go with the motor.

If you really don't want a turbo you would need a Stagea awd RB25DE (fairly rare in Aussie - dime a dozen in NZ) or an original GTS4 engine.

Thanx for the reply KiwiRS4T , ok thats givem me an idea. i would go for the easiest option and try and source a GTS4 donk n box.
Choose Neo before GTR motor. Less fuss, still easy to make power later if wanted, variable cam timing to put some torque into the bottom end. Much cheaper. But.... be aware that a conversion to Turbo will require a brake upgrade to be legal, means going over the pits etc etc. If you were to drop an original GTS4 motor into it you will have an easier time of getting it back on the road.
yeah going to original setup is the go, way easier n cheaper i think. i can always then sell it and buy something already with a turbo ;later if i like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...