Jump to content
SAU Community

Gts4 Rolling Shell, Need Advice On Replacement Motor And Box

anikee
 Share

Recommended Posts

anikee Explorer

anikee

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I joined the forum few days back, reading and hoping to find a answer to my Delmer.

I currently am doing a full resto on a 69 dodge phoenix now for over a year and i am needing a break on it, so i decided to buy a cheap skyline and go from there.

Too cut a long story short, I bought a immaculate rolling shell R33 GTS4 and all that it requires is motor, box n ecu, thinking how hard is it to slip an engine n box...........well

After trying to find anything that could help me out, i got totally confuddelled :wacko: ...but from what I have read I have one of the less desirable skylines.

All I would like to do is get the car back running in original set up and everything to work as it was before removal of old motor n box.

Now do i need to find a replacement from another R33 GTS4 or Can i source a RB25DE form another car?

what about ecu? do i use the one from replacement motor or find one from a GTS4?

I need a gearbox, can i use one out of a GTS T or from any other model.

I know some of my questions might be stupid to some but i do apologize, so if anyone can throw me a link, phone number or any advice it would be most appreciated.post-97245-0-73837000-1344527018_thumb.jpgpost-97245-0-77517700-1344527056_thumb.jpg

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

In my view the GTS4 is one of the more desirable Skylines (poormans GTR). Importantly it is awd.

Ideally you would get an RB26 and GTR gearbox or second best an awd Stagea Neo turbo engine and GTR gearbox or finally a S1 awd Stagea( R33 S2 RB25DET) motor and GTR gearbox. In each case you would need the ecu and loom to go with the motor.

If you really don't want a turbo you would need a Stagea awd RB25DE (fairly rare in Aussie - dime a dozen in NZ) or an original GTS4 engine.

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

Putting an rb26 in mime, stock box. Or another great option is the neo 25det. Both a straight drop in but custom piping needed, a stud conversion of not already done. You mentioned de motors? Don't want turbo?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Choose Neo before GTR motor. Less fuss, still easy to make power later if wanted, variable cam timing to put some torque into the bottom end. Much cheaper.

But.... be aware that a conversion to Turbo will require a brake upgrade to be legal, means going over the pits etc etc. If you were to drop an original GTS4 motor into it you will have an easier time of getting it back on the road.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Gts4 came factory turbo, no need for engineer cirt at all.

Not quite true. If it was an NA, then it will have NA brakes. You cannot legally put a turbo in without upgrading brakes. In SA, that means at a minimum it has to go to Regency for ID and roadworthy inspections in order to "complete" the engine swap - no engineer required, but the inspection is compulsory. In some other states, a brake swap is a trigger for an engineer's report, even if other versions of the same car had the required brakes.

Even an RB25DET into R32 (from RB20DET starting point) requires the R33 brakes.

anikee Explorer

anikee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In my view the GTS4 is one of the more desirable Skylines (poormans GTR). Importantly it is awd.

Ideally you would get an RB26 and GTR gearbox or second best an awd Stagea Neo turbo engine and GTR gearbox or finally a S1 awd Stagea( R33 S2 RB25DET) motor and GTR gearbox. In each case you would need the ecu and loom to go with the motor.

If you really don't want a turbo you would need a Stagea awd RB25DE (fairly rare in Aussie - dime a dozen in NZ) or an original GTS4 engine.

Thanx for the reply KiwiRS4T , ok thats givem me an idea. i would go for the easiest option and try and source a GTS4 donk n box.
anikee Explorer

anikee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Choose Neo before GTR motor. Less fuss, still easy to make power later if wanted, variable cam timing to put some torque into the bottom end. Much cheaper. But.... be aware that a conversion to Turbo will require a brake upgrade to be legal, means going over the pits etc etc. If you were to drop an original GTS4 motor into it you will have an easier time of getting it back on the road.
yeah going to original setup is the go, way easier n cheaper i think. i can always then sell it and buy something already with a turbo ;later if i like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
    • shubby0901
      Living With An R33 Gtst

      By shubby0901 · Posted

      As I wait for parts to be delivered, I have managed to procure via a contact a R32 Nistune ECU......for now I just want to monitor what the car is doing but eventually.......who knows where we go 😂
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
×
×
  • Create New...