Jump to content
SAU Community

Weird Grinding/rattling Sound At Low Rpm

EarthShore

By EarthShore,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
Posted

There is grinding/rattling sound from the engine when I'm in about the 1500-2000 RPM range. However, the sound is only heard when I am in the rev range in gears 3,4 and 5. The sound appears to be coming from the left side of the engine from where I am driving. The sound is more noticeable when the car is under higher load eg. 3rd gear 1500 RPM up a slight slope. Is this sound normal?

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

I thought a noise mine has was coming from there, but I then found that my cat converter is rattling.

get on the ground and give your exhaust a good wack with your hand.

Good chance you'll hear the same sound.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

The big question is why are you down so low in the rev range in a high gear and putting the engine under load?

My R33's all do this when you are simply under 2,000 and in a high gear and try to accelerate - simple solution - watch your revs and change down so that you can have your turbo spool freely.

EarthShore Contributor

EarthShore

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

@ HR32GTS 4DOOR 1997 r33 gtst

@ Hadouken I actually don't know, I was playing around with it today. It appears when i engage the clutch the sound goes away

@Not a Pulsar I'll give that a try. Should i do it with the engine on or not?

@Victory Sometimes at slow points I'm a bit lazy to down shift to 3rd so I just leave it in 4th haha. Yeah, I suppose i should down shift...

By engage I mean pedal to the floor haha :whistling:

Edited by EarthShore
starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like what i had, the filter in my catalytic converted became loose and its gave it a sound like metal scraping on the concrete in the rev range you described. I took off the cat and as suspected the filter was freely bouncing around, bought a second hand cat from a member on this site no noises since. Have you in anyway gave it a knock ?, when my car was lower i managed to bottom out slighty since the cat is the lowest it took the impact.

Edited by starwarz
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted (edited)

By click do you mean rattle?

Mine makes the same sound when I wack the exhaust as when I take off slow / reverse out the driveway / cruise through a carpark etc.

I would take my cat off but it's welded to the front pipe. Gonna have to take both off.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Assumimng you have them, try tightening your Heat shields. ie. turbo shield, exhaust manifold shield & front pipe shield. My front pipe shield was rattling a bit when I was trying to find my noise.

Even the plug for the O2 sensor was rattling on it's bracket. All of these are roughly in the direction of your glovebox.

OEM_as_f*ck Apprentice

OEM_as_f*ck

Posted
Posted

Are you sure its coming from the engine? I reckon its your clutch rattling until it gets into a high enough rev range to engage propperly.

This ^^

Its pretty normal man, if you drive in the wrong gear because you are lazy, your car will not like you and it will express this dislike by making noises.

Pretty much every car in the world does it. Use the right gear and the problem is gone

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • PranK
      2001 R34DE

      By PranK · Posted

      Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...