Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is grinding/rattling sound from the engine when I'm in about the 1500-2000 RPM range. However, the sound is only heard when I am in the rev range in gears 3,4 and 5. The sound appears to be coming from the left side of the engine from where I am driving. The sound is more noticeable when the car is under higher load eg. 3rd gear 1500 RPM up a slight slope. Is this sound normal?

I thought a noise mine has was coming from there, but I then found that my cat converter is rattling.

get on the ground and give your exhaust a good wack with your hand.

Good chance you'll hear the same sound.

The big question is why are you down so low in the rev range in a high gear and putting the engine under load?

My R33's all do this when you are simply under 2,000 and in a high gear and try to accelerate - simple solution - watch your revs and change down so that you can have your turbo spool freely.

@ HR32GTS 4DOOR 1997 r33 gtst

@ Hadouken I actually don't know, I was playing around with it today. It appears when i engage the clutch the sound goes away

@Not a Pulsar I'll give that a try. Should i do it with the engine on or not?

@Victory Sometimes at slow points I'm a bit lazy to down shift to 3rd so I just leave it in 4th haha. Yeah, I suppose i should down shift...

By engage I mean pedal to the floor haha :whistling:

Edited by EarthShore

Sounds like what i had, the filter in my catalytic converted became loose and its gave it a sound like metal scraping on the concrete in the rev range you described. I took off the cat and as suspected the filter was freely bouncing around, bought a second hand cat from a member on this site no noises since. Have you in anyway gave it a knock ?, when my car was lower i managed to bottom out slighty since the cat is the lowest it took the impact.

Edited by starwarz

By click do you mean rattle?

Mine makes the same sound when I wack the exhaust as when I take off slow / reverse out the driveway / cruise through a carpark etc.

I would take my cat off but it's welded to the front pipe. Gonna have to take both off.

Edited by Not a Pulsar

Assumimng you have them, try tightening your Heat shields. ie. turbo shield, exhaust manifold shield & front pipe shield. My front pipe shield was rattling a bit when I was trying to find my noise.

Even the plug for the O2 sensor was rattling on it's bracket. All of these are roughly in the direction of your glovebox.

Are you sure its coming from the engine? I reckon its your clutch rattling until it gets into a high enough rev range to engage propperly.

This ^^

Its pretty normal man, if you drive in the wrong gear because you are lazy, your car will not like you and it will express this dislike by making noises.

Pretty much every car in the world does it. Use the right gear and the problem is gone

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...