Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, my diff is on the way out, and i was wondering:

1 If anyone has ever fitted a non Skyline diff in a Skyline, and what was it, how was it done.

2 Or, What diff centres fit in what housings, which housings fit in which models (can i put a 33 diff on my 32)?

I want to fix my diff on a budget, so any useful info is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407035-diff-replacement-options/
Share on other sites

R32 and R33 are the same diff, but there are differences. The R32 rear mounting points are different, so you'd need to swap back plates over. The R33 diffs use bushes in teh front mountss and the R32 doesn't. So you need to obtain bushes to fit an R33 housing to an R32.

The internals are essentially the same (both crappy VLSDs, 4.11 and 4.3 ratios for manuals and autos). Aftermarket diffs sometimes use different length half shafts (like, they'll use one the same length as the Nissan diff, and another a different length to the Nissan diff).. That can be a complication if you're sourcing a centre from somewhere and it doesn't come with everything you need.

Helicals from S15s can be used. I put a 4.11 crownwheel and pinion onto an S15 helical centre and put the whole lot into my R32 housing. Cost a fortune in the end, just about could have gone for Nismo 1.5way instead. Some R34 manuals were helical, and those diffs will drop in in the same way that an R33 one will.

There are not any really useful non-Nissan internals you would put inside a Nissan housing, and there are not really any non-Nissan housings you would bother trying to put into an R32 chassis. Too much f**king around for little gain. The Nissan R200 is a pretty strong diff.

So the easiest is take it to the diff dr,

the cheapest is a second-hand centre from 32, 33, or helical 34s.

Sounds pretty straightforward.

Thanks for complete info, everything i need to know.

:thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone noticed much diffrance with getting power to the wheels with a diff such as a Nimso - Or even one shimmed to specs

Helped with traction?

The way i see it- Its a locked diff that allows both wheels to spin at the same time- Kind of defeating the purpose of the diff in the fact it was designed to allow both wheels to roate at diffrent speeds.

Just thinking from a street/circuit racing point- I can understand for drift single legger would not be as efficent and predicatble.

Edited by sydking

Question is serious?

An open diff does what a diff is supposed to do, which is to allow you to drive around bends without the left and right wheels fighting each other because of the different wheel speeds required to cover the different length paths. An open diff will usually spin up on wheel under heavy acceleration, and is therefore useless in a performance car.

An LSD (I presume you are talking about the Nismo LSDs, and not some solid spool diff that Nismo may or may not do that I don't know about) is intended to reduce the tendency to spin up one wheel. They do not "lock". There is a maximum differential torque that they will handle before they will allow slip to occur between the two wheels, and hopefully that max torque is higher than the expected loading in the application it is installed in. If you hit them hard enough you can still make them slip relative to each other.

And yes, it is all about traction. Better 2 wheels spinning and actually providing some drive than one wheel spinning and providing none at all (in the extreme case), but at anything less than the extreme case, you get to apply acceleration up to the grip limit of the two wheels together, instead of up to the limit of whichever wheel has the lowest grip (and so would spin first).

Always serious mate, Cheers for that.

Just trying to work out what i should do for my gts4- as the rb26 now in im thinking il require something shimmed up to help get the power down,

Just been reading the DIY diff shimmin thread- Some good info and results in there too, I think it could be the go

Edited by sydking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...