Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been chasing an intermittent idle issue now for a while, and just got an ECUtalk lead and software for the laptop... Set it up in the car, found ignition timing was showing a solid 15deg at startup, but after about a minute or so running, timing started jumping around constantly between 0-10 deg on idle. Everything else was reading pretty steady apart from O2 voltage which i think is supposed to jump around between 0-1v and it was, so normal? Ignition timing held pretty steady when high in the revs apart from the occasional blip of a couple of degrees either way, but back to jumping all over the place between 0-10 as soon as the throttle is let off and back to idle.

So is this pretty conclusive then, that the CAS is rooted? Or could it be just indicating something else to be checked, before I go spend a fair chunk of cash on a new CAS?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407076-rb25-idle-now-cas-issue-advice-pls/
Share on other sites

Standard ECU I'm guessing?

Reset the ECU and let it idle/take it for a drive and see if that changes anything

Also does the CAS sound/feel wrecked? Mine was making a slight grinding noise when it died, I pulled it off and could barely turn the shaft. Went one step further and pulled it apart, found that the bearing at the very front of the unit was dry as

timing should not be 0 at idle or even 10. 15-20 degrees is about right

yep, standard ecu. It's been reset many times since this first started happening, hasn't helped.

Pulled cas off this morning, felt ok, maybe slight roughness of bearing but not much. Can hear a bit of rumbling sound from that area while the car is idling though.

LOl i know 0-10 is not right :P that's why I mentioned it. Timing is set to 15deg though, and showed as this when first started yesterday, sits on that when the car is running right too...it's just the issue is getting more and more frequent. Also noted when out driving yesterday, when coming down in revs back to idle, it occasionally locks on a steady 20deg which makes it idle at around 1200rpm. A blip on the throttle brings this back down to a more normal idle, although with erratic 0-10deg timing.

i should also point out, timing is erratic only with TPS connected. When unplugged it idles at a steady 15deg, but jumps around once plugged in, TPS voltage readings are fine though and steady, not jumping about. Have tried another CAS and same result.

  • 4 years later...

My experience is that the timing will do exactly as described when the idle screw is set too high.  The ECU tries to control idle speed with reduced timing.  The first test is to wind in the idle screw and see if the timing starts to come back.  In my car, after a number of other issues were dealt with, I had to wind the idle in about 5 turns before the ECU gave up trying to pull the timing back to 0-5°.

Yes, was afm needed cleaning. As far as ignition timing goes, gtsboy is correct again lol. Timing is supposed to be erratic but having idle set right without idle control on, makes it less so.

allright thank you i will try to set my idle lower, but its 850 right now and ecu screw is in factory position. and iw cleaned afm and the volts seems to be right checked it with consult 1.14 at idle and i think they went around 4 when pulling hard at second.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...