Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pics in my profile garage if u need proof 294.7rwhp until it leans out.

need bigger injectors cos im only running 6.5psi :yes:

look at mod pics

thanks to dean at WA automotive specialists in perth, and Jamie for his MEGASQUIRT ecu which did what a haltech couldnt

goes fkn hard :cheers:

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the ABS light is coming up on the dash and we cant figure out why. anyone got any ideas? doing the dyno power run tomorrow so will post the sheet up after work to keep you number guys happy lol. no matter the figure its a different animal than it was :yes: might have to plumb that screamer back in though its f@#!$n noisy!

also did anyone have a funny little aerial on the drivers side dash in their v35? i thought it was something to do with the toll roads but it was conected to lots of little modules and boxes one which contained a brand new brown nissan key that didnt fit my car????? does this have something to do with the abs maybe? beats me.

Just get a scanner and read the diagnostic code. That will lead you in the right direction. When you can achieve full boost very early, I'm not sure a screamer was the right choice. Mines plumbed.

the kit came with the screamer but ill weld it up tomorrow got plenty of tube and flanges handy anyway. not showing any codes thats why im confused. any ideas about that little antenna thingy? it was wired into a lot of different things

Think it might be to do with the security and GPS system in the pop up dash. Just leave it alone. Nothing to do with abs. Abs computer is different to motor ecu, so codes won't come up with the manual process I think. Needs compatible scanner. Otherwise don't worry about it.

Remember you have stock injectors before you go into heroic power attempts...make sure your tuner is monitoring knock.

let the missus drive last night cos i had a few. not a good idea lol whats the best cleaner to use on leather seats???

shes driven my mates boss270 and thought that was a fast car,until last nite never again methinks

interesting to read.that works out to 220kw @ wheels by my calculations.

for comparison, my HKS GTsupercharge'd V35 makes 234kw @ wheels at 7psi max boost.

so, basically similar results whether you go turbo or supercharged in terms of peak power. i wonder how the power deliveries would compare?

what injectors are you running currently?

i suspect your setup will be able to produce more peak power once you sort out the tuning/injectors and whatnot. i guess depends how much boost you want to push taking into account reliability..

its actually 237rwkw but whos counting.

stock injectors at the moment so im not gonna up the boost until i get bigger ones.

im making roughly 18hp for every pound of boost i add but ill sit on it for a while.

the kit was making 270kw@ wheels @9psi on the z it came off but that was a 6m/t

each to his own i guess

i like the fact i can change boost whenever i want and that noone over here has a turbo v (that i know of) while there are a few s/c on Vs and Zs

plus that turbo does whistle nicely

  • 2 weeks later...

hi all

car is runnin sweet apart from a couple of little issues

1 : cel,slip,and vdc lights wont turn off

i think its because the megasquirt runs the injectors now so gonna wire in some resistors to factory ecu to trick it. tried manual reset but that works until i turn car off again then lights come back once i restart. annoying!

2 : installed an Apexi turbo timer cos its a lazy mans tool so it suits me fine,but,it only seems to work if i drive a short distance. any more than 5kms it wont turn on. is there i setting i can adjust or just swap it for another? also annoying!

1000cc injectors for xmas then a run a 8psi

cheers

1: go and read the error codes and hope to hell they are not for Knock. That will tell you where to go- could be for too rich/ too lean, or misfire, or CAS AFM etc etc.

2: Useless Turbo timer is useless. Turbo is water cooled. As long as you not coming off a racetrack and turning it straight off, there is no point. Easiest thing to go - just don't flog it for the last 5 mins of your journey. Rip it out and sell it to some other bloke.

i also have CEL permanently on - dynoe'd it to make sure no knock/leaning etc when I purchased the car and all good. i cant remember the error code, but i beleive it is to do with the oxygen sensors in the cats - they are very sensitive and as soon as one reads a value outside the normal range (which happens all the time running supercharger with aftermarket ecu,larger injectors, etc) it activates the CEL.

i have also been told this by an official HKS approved worshops in australia who have seen this commonly on super- and turbo-charged VQ's.

not sure what the deal with your slip and vdc lights though..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...