Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im running a faily basic RB20 set up

GTR injectors

Splitfires

Vg30 turbo

Nistune

Z32 AFM

Stock manafold

Front mount and exhaust

Was previously running RB20det Red top cams (slightly more duration on intake than the silver top 248 vs 240)

Made 197 KW (16LB) boost

Put a set of Kelford 258s and cam gears

Played around for a bit with differnt cam seetings was chasing response ended up with 12 deg advance on intake and 0 exh.

Made 207 KW (16LB) boost

No loss in power over the entire rev range and held the power in the top end without falling off like it did before, also power and boost came on a bees dick earlier.

But yeah I see no point in putting a 6 boost on with a 2860, a waste of time really Probably get better response with a stock manafold,

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif.

Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more :whistling: , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.

What turbo did you have on that made power all the way to 8000?

What's the point of him upgrading his camshafts so he can rev higher when the turbo won't be making power after about 7k?

Nah I didnt a play with cam timinig with the factory cams, was thinking about doing it but never go around to it, then I found a set of cams for a price that i couldnt turn down, so I did it all at once.

My car before cams it made peak power at a little over 6 ish , but power started to drop off a bit after 7k and was toatlly gone by 7.5.

Am only using a factory VG30 turbo

Peak power is still at about the same spot but it the engine does not loose efficency as rapidly once over reved, at about 8100 the power is the same as with out the cams, but between 7 and 8k there is about 20 kw diffrence. Which I find very usefull at the track i just gives the engine a more useable power band.

Money would be better off spent on a turbo, But I dont want want to have my car make more than 220 Kw as I could not afford to run a car with more power due to the aditional cost in tires

Edited by murph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...