Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Water Lines / Head Drain Kit

OMGGTR

By OMGGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

As a part of my rebuild all the mods i do also require a shit load of custom work to make them all fit.

todays question ( ive searched and found nothing) is...

How have you guys overcome the issue of using a head oil drain kit ( spool one) with the waterlines which run behind the head...

Pics are me holding the lines up. you can see the space from the head ( 10mm bolt ) to the water line bracket .

the only way past it that i can think is either bend the lines which i know will f*k them up... or cut them and insert rubber hose in place around the drain kit... but im sure it will rub and overtime cut into the hose.. :(

i purchased a justjap heater hose kit ... do any of these hoses help my issue ?

any help is greatly appriciated as allways..

cheers guys.

post-53107-0-03918200-1345899244_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-34595900-1345899260_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-82474600-1345899281_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407815-rb26-water-lines-head-drain-kit/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

Yep that's what I meant by "relieve" the drains.
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know ? Or am i the first person with this issue?

You need to bend the lines out of the way and have them loosely sitting under the drain area rather than bolted to the head.

If you are worried about rubbing, put a slit down some fuel hose and cover the steel line where it touches. There is not a lot else you can do, that setup is designed for race applications and assumes you won't be using the standard crap back there

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Is there a kit u can buy that replaces that junk i really dislike it so messy

Not that I know of.

It's just water and boost. You can run vacuum hose to replace the boost but the water line will probably need to be braid or similar as it will need to go into the turbos directly

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

From their facebook page.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/575130_375235542513766_80282491_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/485110_340008556036465_1137789783_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/306044_340008606036460_1294723610_n.jpg

Maybe they are not on the market yet. Their website hasn't got them listed. But its possible they are available just not online yet.

Ring Andrew and ask.

disco_potatoe Rising Star

disco_potatoe

Posted
Posted

i have the same problem on my rb25det, i have been trying to think of a way around it.

does anyone know if the line has to be on a fall, as in letting the water flow down into the turbo? or is it ok to use just rubber hose and bend it around head drain kit. i have lewis engine drain kit.

please help.

  • 8 months later...
$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
Posted

All good guys proud owner of their first drain kit how mad ill show a pic with pipes once fitted

Keen to see/hear how you went this mate...

I am currently looking at the Nitto product

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...