Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

As a part of my rebuild all the mods i do also require a shit load of custom work to make them all fit.

todays question ( ive searched and found nothing) is...

How have you guys overcome the issue of using a head oil drain kit ( spool one) with the waterlines which run behind the head...

Pics are me holding the lines up. you can see the space from the head ( 10mm bolt ) to the water line bracket .

the only way past it that i can think is either bend the lines which i know will f*k them up... or cut them and insert rubber hose in place around the drain kit... but im sure it will rub and overtime cut into the hose.. :(

i purchased a justjap heater hose kit ... do any of these hoses help my issue ?

any help is greatly appriciated as allways..

cheers guys.

post-53107-0-03918200-1345899244_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-34595900-1345899260_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-82474600-1345899281_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407815-rb26-water-lines-head-drain-kit/
Share on other sites

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

Drilling out the internal drains doesn't really do a lot unless you funnel the leading edge of the top side because half the hole is covered by the valve spring seat.

Yep that's what I meant by "relieve" the drains.

Does anyone know ? Or am i the first person with this issue?

You need to bend the lines out of the way and have them loosely sitting under the drain area rather than bolted to the head.

If you are worried about rubbing, put a slit down some fuel hose and cover the steel line where it touches. There is not a lot else you can do, that setup is designed for race applications and assumes you won't be using the standard crap back there

Is there a kit u can buy that replaces that junk i really dislike it so messy

Not that I know of.

It's just water and boost. You can run vacuum hose to replace the boost but the water line will probably need to be braid or similar as it will need to go into the turbos directly

i have the same problem on my rb25det, i have been trying to think of a way around it.

does anyone know if the line has to be on a fall, as in letting the water flow down into the turbo? or is it ok to use just rubber hose and bend it around head drain kit. i have lewis engine drain kit.

please help.

  • 8 months later...

All good guys proud owner of their first drain kit how mad ill show a pic with pipes once fitted

Keen to see/hear how you went this mate...

I am currently looking at the Nitto product

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...