Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm new here, and I can imagine its been covered before on this forum. But I can't find a straight forward answer.

The rear suspension in my R34 25GT has gone, and I can easily replace it for roughly $600, but I wanted to put adjustable coil overs in eventually any way, so that is what I'll be doing.

I was going to put Pedders Sports Ryder eXtreme XA Coil Over Suspension into it, But the bloke at Pedders seems to think they will fit onto the rears no problems, but might not fit onto the front for some reason.

Also he is doing a really crap job at getting back to me with an answer, which is why I'm asking here.

Now, I can buy a full set of these for $1520, what I want to know is, will these fit onto my car? (year is 1999 in case that makes a difference) Or is there a better product I can put on there in the same price range? (Can't spend anymore than $1600)

I know I can put on normal suspension for cheaper and it might be better quality, but I'll be putting on a body kit and new rims in less then a year (hopefully) and I don't want to have to change the springs again when this happens, which is a good reason why I want them to be adjustable.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/
Share on other sites

Rears come in 2 sorts. Eye or fork lower mounts. Fronts are the same for all R33's & R34's regardless of variant. Tbh I would be going somewhere else and probably getting something a bit better than pedders. Entry level teins, Silk roads etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6503885
Share on other sites

Apparently I must have eye lower mounts, I'm not using my car for any sort of drift/racing so they don't have to be the best,

How much would it cost for tiens or silk roads? And are they adjustable coil overs?

I don't know much about cars in general so sorry if I sound like an idiot haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6503905
Share on other sites

Okay, so I've looked over a couple of other forums posts, and I've narrowed down my search for my price range.

These are what I've come up with

http://www.pedders.com.au/products/52

http://www.isc-coilovers.com/coilovers.html

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18623&cat=422&page=9

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20209&cat=422&page=9

The last two are the same product I'm pretty sure. Its just that one is a fork type and the other is an eyelet type. I think the 1999 25GT has an eyelet type (If someone could clarify on that it would be great)

Could someone please tell me which of these would be the better one to buy? As I really want my car back on the road ASAP!

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6503962
Share on other sites

I just had a quick look at the bottom of the suspension on my car, they have the eyelet connection on both front and back.. Which doesnt look like whats in the picture of this

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=422&page=9

Edited by MaccaD2191
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6503979
Share on other sites

I put bcs in my 33 the other week. Seems to be going ok at the moment.

Get them from street to track. They'll be about $150 cheaper than justjap.

Exactly what i did :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6504621
Share on other sites

I've got Tein SS on my 34 now, the rears got noisy and collapsed, this is why i am trying the BC's :)

Why don't you get Fulcrum Suspensions in Queensland to rebuild them? TEINs are much better than BCs ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407838-r34-coil-over/#findComment-6505245
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...