Jump to content
SAU Community

Coolant Overflow Bottle Bone Dry Second Time

DC33VN

By DC33VN,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
Posted

Hey guys long story short i have changed my radiator , thermostat , radiator hoses , radiator cap and water pump and since then my overflow bottle has gone bone dry 2 times and im freaking out as i have checked my oil cap and its not milky and the fact that i have basically changed the whole cooling system and this is happening.

has anyone else had this same problem or know what it could be cos from what iv seen i cant see any coolant leaking.

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

last time i filled it up when the overflow went empty, now yesterday the coolant had about 2 fingers left in the bottle and i had a looktoday and there is nothing left then i went filled petrol and have not checked the radiator yet

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

long story short i bought this car and it sat for 1 year as i was still on my ps and when i was getting a power steering belt changed i later on realised something must of hit the standard radiator and there was a hole so i swapped it out for a just jap one. upon getting my fulls i got it tuned there was a hairline crack in the water pump so that was swapped out and i thought id might as well do the thermostat as the rest of the cooling system was new

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey you bleed the cooling system of air... it could be just bleeding the air from the system and using the coolant from the overflow like it should.

cheers sam

system was bled and filled up after so i doubt it could be that.

If its not leaking on the ground then its probably going in a cylinder,most probably a head gasket.Check the spark plugs,if ones a bit chalky then thats the cylinder

coming to think of it i have had a really bad misfiring on idle so i will def give the spark plugs a check tomorrow

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Could be air still working itself through the system keep on filling up and hope it stops, give it 5 more cold start-ups to be sure.

This happened to me, more then twice when i went for a drive checked the coolant in the morning and nothing was in the overflow

turned out my radiator cap was shot and no pressure was in my hoses (check for pressure in yours) changed it and 2-3 times after that it did the same

thing just not as bad and i just kept on feeling her up until coolant stayed. I reckon air still in the system ! i was afraid my head gasket or worse

cracked block was the problem, thank god it wasn't.

Edited by starwarz
DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

poppedd in to my mechanics today he is leaning towards a air leak as when he put more fuel into the tune the car started to idle better.

so its going in next monday for a smoke test and a pressure test on the cooling system

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks mate... this is the last thing i need now haha.. had car in lock up for a yr just watching it till i got my fulls and hopefully i dont need to watch it for another yr till i save $ to build the engine

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted (edited)

It still needs bleeding there hard to bleed. I keep bleeding it then let it cool down and check overflow bottle until level stablizes takes close to 10 times til fully bled so nothing to worry about, either keep topping it up til it stops losing or bleed it.

Edited by boostn0199
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Tomei gasket

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • GTSBoy
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
    • Trinicandian
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By Trinicandian · Posted

      Hey guys. New here. I am having an issue with my hr34. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I removed it from the tank. Bench test it. Wasn't working. Order new one and installed it today. Still not turning on. Checked the relay. Relay has voltage on the contact side. I jumped it and it tuned the pump on. Which lead me to checked the coil voltage.  Turned on the ignition and had my meter across the coil and there wasn't any dc voltage. Had my meter lead on the positive and I used the frame ground and noticed there was 12 volts. Which lead me to believe the relay isn't getting a negative signal. I traced the wire ( black with pink strip).it goes back to the bottom on the steering and it gets lost into the harness.   I checked at the ecm and I can't seem to find that wire color.   My question if any one knows is. Can I not just run the negative through a ignition relay to turn on the fuel pump relay?. Or anyone ever had this issue and if so how did u go about fixing it.    
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      So many people don't notice it, as batteries decay slowly over time. Two big reasons people end up noticing and needing to replace batteries: 1) The cold weather. The cold not only makes it harder to turn the engine for a few reasons, but it also increases the batteries internal resistance. So this means you need MORE power to turn a colder engine, AND the battery has a lower limit on how much current it can provide. 2) Something gets modified/altered/added in the wiring, typically an aftermarket accessory, like a dash camera, or an alarm etc, and this adds a small amount extra onto the battery, and pushes it over the edge in its failing days. But if you hadn't have read this thread, and just pushed through, chances are you might have made it through this winter, just. But come next winter, it would have been kapoot. But the fact you changed it out now, means you've instantly noticed how much nicer it is for starting, and will be less worry for you that the engine won't start now.
    • soviet_merlin
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary. 
×
×
  • Create New...