Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

In case anyone is interested, after driving around to all the ****wit Nissan dealers in the state, I eventually took my car to Blackburn Nissan.

They were great!

Fixed the problem in less than a day and very reasonable on price.

The problem turned out to be the connection for the Air Flow Meter.

Boost on...

  • Replies 242
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

Find the earth wire from the pump and cut it and run it directly to a good ground on some bare metal in the boot area......fixed.

I have an R32, the fuel pump entry point on R/H side of spare when standing at rear of vehicle?

Plug connection under metal shield with arrow on top joins fuel pump wires to rest of harness?

Wires=blue w/red trace, white w/purple trace, yellow w/green trace, yellow and also black.

I am assuming that black is the earth? Can I just cut it before the plug then?

Apologies for my ignorace but it is better to be safe than sorry and I would really like to fix my idle issue.

:D:( :( :D :D

Well, I had to take my balls in my hands and do it myself. After I regained the strength in my arms I got to work.

Cut the black wire and earthed it out under one of the screws holding down the metal plate with the arrow on top.

Started car and idle was still a little up and down after I gassing car while it was in neutral.

Took it for a real thrashing on a private road, a REAL thrashing, then drove it around off boost for 10-15mins and came home.

Purrs like a kitten, idle steady. Now I'm going out to give the AAC valve a carby cleaner shower and wave goodbye to this embarrasing problem hopefully forever.!:)

STALLING AT LIGHTS ETC. ESPECIALLY WHEN A/C IS ON

I don't think anyone has touched on the possibility of a vacuum leak. It is highly possible this is why the cars are stalling at the lights etc. We work with a lot of skylines and this is often the problem. A leaking BOV etc. will do it but more commonly it will be perished vacuum lines. Just behind the throttle body is a problem area. Just listen for the hiss. See how you go.

Sorry to post again so soon, but just a couple of things.

In cars that I have dealt with,

If it idles up and down try Air Flow Meter or Oxygen sensor.

We've had this problem a bit...mostly AFM.....might not be such a good idea to take the mesh out after all.

If it surges when you tromp it but will rev smooth if you ease it....definitely Fuel Pump.

Seriously guys, if you own a turbo skyline get a new pump asap.

We've dealt with a lot of them and the stock pumps always die.

When the cars are imported they have very little or no fuel in them and I think this has something to do with why they fail.

It is so common a problem I think it should be part of compliance.

It would sure avoid a lot of unnecessary engine rebuilds. Leaning out due to a weak pump is real bad news.

We sell them but get one from anywhere.

Go the Bosch 044 good for 650hp

Hope this helps.

What's the Fuel Enconmy like with the Bosch 044, or does it not really matter with the Fuel Pump, it just's maintains the pressure.

What's the price of the pump as well.

2 things that I have noticed with my R33, first, at idle the Vacumn gauge sits just below 0, would that indicate a vacumn leak? What's the easiest way to confirm that there is a leak.

Second, I took the drivers side kick panel off to check out the ECU, and what was staring at me. 2 exposed wires that were covered by electrical tape. Should I repair these connections so it isn't exposed. (stupid question I know, just wanted to get the reassurance from those more experienced then me).

  • 3 weeks later...

I thought I'd post a reply with my recent experience with this stalling problem...

When my car was allowed to idle it would idle fine for about 10 seconds then the pump would stop completely (no sound from pump at all), then about 4 seconds later the engine would cut out (no fuel of course).

As mentioned in this thread, the pump control module normally goes into low speed pump mode by switching in some kind of resistor on the earth of the pump.

We wired the pump earth straight to ground and the problem was completely solved.

We aren't completely sure of the cause, but there seem to be 2 possibilities:

1) I have an after-market pump and with a resisted earth it doesn't have enough power to run.

2) The resistor circuitry in the pump control module is buggered and not working.

We are considering swapping out the pump control module (located behind the panel on the right hand side of the boot) for a known working module out of another car.

An interesting result of the stalling problem is that we couldn't get the car to idle at less that about 1100rpm. This would seem to make sense as the pump control module has a RPM feed and may only kick in at less than about 1100rpm. With a proper earth the car idles stable at 750rpm even though we haven't been able to tune it at that RPM yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest VuDuDoc

Now i have a here there type problem. it seems that the power is here and there. rough start in the AM and after that kinda alright.....as rpms increase slowly there is a sudden burst on the powerband. i have a HP pump @255lph/55psi.....wierd

i actually went to mod my fuel pump the other day and found it's directly connected to the ignition so it's on constantly, and mine still does this stalling.

I'm getting a bigger pump in a few weeks so i might re-wire again and see what happens.

mine use to stall with a aftermarket BOV..i just added a T-piece contector and added the 2 out take lines off the BOVS (factory + blitz) together and back to the throddle body and havent had a prob since...i also noticed that the car ran alot smoother as well.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

i have an r32 and found that earthin the black wire did not keep the fuel pump on but killed my fuel gauge. after hunting for the relay that switches off the fuel pump (near boot latch under trim) i cut and joined two wires (after testing first!) and now the fuel pump stays on with ing. did it last night and am at work now so no real test time yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you GTSBoy and MBS206 I have done the compression test with the motor out of the vehicle, reason for the test was to see if I needed to remove the head and do rings etc while its out. I'm in the process of respraying the vehicle and tidying up a few things. Story behind it all is I've just purchased the skyline and it was running when I got it, never drove it on the street though as I wanted to pull it down and do it all up again before registering it. the gentleman I purchased it from told me the motor has a forged bottom end and has a decent tune through it but I was going to pull the sump off anyway to see if it is a forged bottom end. that's why I thought id do a compression test beforehand. 
    • Man, I'm kind of amazed that the price of the turbo has not changed in 7 years. Everything else is inflating beyond reason, but not this? Good on Tao / hypergear I guess? Anyways, good luck with the sale!
    • I'm selling my brand new, in the box, never used Hypergear ATR45 - and I had some additions I paid for a few yrs back when I purchased it. Never ended up having the rest of the money to add all the mods at once, so I just ended up slowly selling each part. I originally had it internally gated, with the dump pipe, however I found it was incompatible with what I was going to use it for, so I contacted (I think Ken) from Hypergear, and he and I messaged back and forth & he got me to ship the turbo back, where they modified it & made it externally gated, and gave me the 5 bolt dump pipe attachment for custom welding. (Photos below) This turbo like I said has never touched the inside of an engine bay, it's completely brand new, never used, been sitting in the same box it arrived in, covered in plastic & all. Below are the photos of it: And while the guys at Hypergear were making it in-shop, they sent me some photos of the process: I'm looking at selling this just because I'm in need of the money right now, and don't have plans on modifying the 34 anytime soon - and from reviews & peformance sheets, this turbo had amazing results back when I was researching. The turbo was purchased in 2018 for $1.9k, with the mods I got added on. Looking at the website now, for the same turbo they sell (ATR45SAT), with the current addons it adds up to $1830 for the turbo Current addons included: - Bolted dump adaptor - Ball bearing CHRA - Braided oil feeding line So I'm looking to possibly sell it for around $1800, with shipping included in that 1.8k, It cost me around $120 to ship - so yeah thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone was interested in purchasing. Cheers!
    • Turn up your speakers https://youtu.be/5_GK5ChNjOs?feature=shared
×
×
  • Create New...