Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some people still fit an adjustable cam gear to the factory exhaust cam.

My RB26 had just an adjustable cam gear on the factory exhaust cam from Japan.

I'll be fitting one on the exhaust cam of my NEO. I'm using factory cams for the time being with the notion of changing to after market cams down the track. I'll get my tuner to play around with the exhaust cam timing. If it so happens to be an advantage then awesome. If not then it will come in handy later on.

Some people still fit an adjustable cam gear to the factory exhaust cam.

My RB26 had just an adjustable cam gear on the factory exhaust cam from Japan.

I'll be fitting one on the exhaust cam of my NEO. I'm using factory cams for the time being with the notion of changing to after market cams down the track. I'll get my tuner to play around with the exhaust cam timing. If it so happens to be an advantage then awesome. If not then it will come in handy later on.

My NEO has the exhaust cam gear and poncams, was adjusted slightly i think!

Certainly shouldn't be on the top of your list - especially not with a stock motor - and nor should cams be near the top.

When you have done the full exhaust, fullflow air filter, fmic, bigger injectors, Z32afm, new fuel pump, better turbo, upgraded ecu you may find that with an adjustable exhaust gear only you can shift some of your top end power to the midrange.

When I had the RB25DET on about 250awkw I had mine dynoed and best result was about 3.5 deg ret from memory and it gained about 8 kw at about 3500 -4000 and a few off the top. And no didn't loctite the set screws - someone posted that they were the weak point on cheap cam gears so I went to the engineering supplies and they said they were already good quality high tensile (had the standard stamped on them) so I just did them up tight with the hex key and they never moved. No reason not to loctite I suppose once you're happy with the tune.

Hi guys,

I'm looking to get my car tunned on e85 in coming weeks and was thinking about putting adj. cam gear on ex side. Its for built 25 with tomei 256/8.5 poncams, 35R .86 etc. It's been making 470-480 whp @1.6 bar for few years and makes full boost by 4500rpm

How much gain can I expect from playing with cam gear if any?

Cheers

G.

Edited by 3BEPKA
  • 11 months later...

Any definative answer on a Exhaust cam gear for a RB25 NEO? I've got the 100k service coming up and want to know if its worth popping one on.

Still stock turbo, but will upgrade later on down the track. If its only a few KW I don't think I'll bother

Any definative answer on a Exhaust cam gear for a RB25 NEO? I've got the 100k service coming up and want to know if its worth popping one on.

Still stock turbo, but will upgrade later on down the track. If its only a few KW I don't think I'll bother

In this case, dont bother :)

Is it worth popping one on though for later on down the track with a bigger turbo/injectors?

I've read pages of old threads today and everyone has a differant opinion, most of which seems to suggest the standard NEO cams do a pretty good job without adjustment.

What gains or lack of did you guys experience?

Is it worth popping one on though for later on down the track with a bigger turbo/injectors?

I've read pages of old threads today and everyone has a differant opinion, most of which seems to suggest the standard NEO cams do a pretty good job without adjustment.

What gains or lack of did you guys experience?

I run poncams so the the adjustable gear sits at 0 and does bugger all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...