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I am seriously feeling depressed after selling my r33 gtst :( kind of regret it but oh well.

Sold it due to me wanting an R33 GTR.....is the upgrade to a GTR that much of a difference?

be honest lol.

Edited by BOOSTBIG
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408403-sold-gtst-for-r33-gtrworth-it/
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man, based on what you know, and what you see....i think it'll be chalk and cheese.

i've never owned a GTR, but just look at the facts;

2.6 vs 2.5

different heads,

turbos,

TRACTION!

and many other engineering variables.

Go for a test drive in one, and see for yourself, and make up your own opinion of what a GTR is.

Peace out! :woot:

I sold my GTST ages ago to buy a GTR, it's worth it.

Since I've had 3 GTR's with plans to buy another GTR despite my trying to get something else.

Ok thanks heaps guys.

any advice or things I should know about before I purchase a gtr?

any particular model? I am after the R33, but do they differ in terms of specs depending on the year model?

and any difference between a standard gtr and v spec?

thanks guys

You'll just love the R33 GT-R Chris :)

*The V-Spec has a quicker ATTESSA System to activate the front wheels.

*V-Spec is easily recognised by the fins on the rear diff.

*Besides checking for any rust (indicating that the car has lived much of its life near the Japanese coast or been driven on salted roads), do your usual checks as you would on any car.

*I would look for complete history from here as well as Japan &/or receipts.

*Wear and tear should be consistent with the odometer; including driving seat bolster, scratches on steering wheel as well as sun damage, scratches on ignition barrel, scratches under driver's door handle, scratches on door sill, gear knob condition (but that's often changed anyway), and ageing of the windscreen wiper arms.

*Electrics are usually good on the R33 GT-R.

*Brakes should be fine also, but need checking if tracked very much

*Do slow circles clockwise and anticlockwise with windows down to listen for CV clicking

*Check where the car is usually parked overnight to see if there are any oil drips. But put it up on a hoist anyway to check seepage

*Compression test is recommended

*Series II will have 2 airbags & later models may have Xenon headlights

*Don't be surprised about different quality rides in different GT-Rs since there is a wide variety of coilovers out there with different spring rates and settings

You'll just love the R33 GT-R Chris :)

*The V-Spec has a quicker ATTESSA System to activate the front wheels.

*V-Spec is easily recognised by the fins on the rear diff.

*Besides checking for any rust (indicating that the car has lived much of its life near the Japanese coast or been driven on salted roads), do your usual checks as you would on any car.

*I would look for complete history from here as well as Japan &/or receipts.

*Wear and tear should be consistent with the odometer; including driving seat bolster, scratches on steering wheel as well as sun damage, scratches on ignition barrel, scratches under driver's door handle, scratches on door sill, gear knob condition (but that's often changed anyway), and ageing of the windscreen wiper arms.

*Electrics are usually good on the R33 GT-R.

*Brakes should be fine also, but need checking if tracked very much

*Do slow circles clockwise and anticlockwise with windows down to listen for CV clicking

*Check where the car is usually parked overnight to see if there are any oil drips. But put it up on a hoist anyway to check seepage

*Compression test is recommended

*Series II will have 2 airbags & later models may have Xenon headlights

*Don't be surprised about different quality rides in different GT-Rs since there is a wide variety of coilovers out there with different spring rates and settings

thank you so much for that post man. appreciate it.

do you guys recommend I put in forged pistons as soon as possible?

thank you so much for that post man. appreciate it.

do you guys recommend I put in forged pistons as soon as possible?

You'll only need forgies if you're chasing some big power (300ish at the wheels).

You're probably best waiting until the donk needs a rebuild before you go to that expense.

Don't let me stop you but you're looking at a sizeable bill even if you can do it yourself.

Personally I'd work up to it. Mine came with them so happy days!

Could be worth looking for one that has already had engine work. What has been spent on top of the value of the car will be waaaay less than what it would cost you to get done.

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