Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys reasonably new to forum but have been reading alot in project forum. Im about to do an oil change on my gearbox and have been doing research and it seems like a hassle to fill it with oil using the filler plug. You have to use a pump or some other crazy way. My question is can i open the filler plug, take out the gear shifter and fill it from there, getting someone else to tell me when it starts coming out (you're supposed to fill it till it comes out of filler plug right?).

Also the gear shift boot is split and leaking, does anyone have the part number on this? rb25det s1 r33.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408841-gearbox-oil-change-s1-r33/
Share on other sites

Or buy a pump from bunnings that fits onto your oil container (they make them for the 4ltr workshop hand cleaner), cost me $8.00 if I remember correctly, I also got 1/2 meter of clear hose that fits the pump, all up cost about $10, its easier than doing it from inside and you dont run the risk of overfilling or spillage inside the cab.

Ill take a photo when I can.

Nothing is easier than buying a pump as mlr suggested crawling under your car undoing 1 bolt and pumping it in..your gumma have to crawl under there to empty it anyway...

How's the redline work for you Mark? thinking of switching to it as well..

Nothing is easier than buying a pump as mlr suggested crawling under your car undoing 1 bolt and pumping it in..your gumma have to crawl under there to empty it anyway...

How's the redline work for you Mark? thinking of switching to it as well..

I used the Redline prior to getting the box rebuilt as the syncros were on the way out, it seemed to smooth it out well, for a while anyway, when I drained the fluid to first put it in there was little bits of syncros stuck to the drain plug, after a few track days when I drained the oil again there was lots of big peices of syncros.

Im running Nulon everywhere ATM.

I was wanting to get redline but i cant seem to find anywhere that has it. Other than trademe but they sell it as $46 a litre. Im in New Zealand, should i just get the stuff from nissan?

Edited by 33gts25t

Thomas, you can get Redline (smurf blood) from JustJap in Kirrawee: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17082&cat=&page=1

Getting the 3.8L works out a bit cheaper than buying the 0.9L bottles

mrl's idea about getting a handwash pump and hose is perfect to pumping the new oil in.

As other people have mentioned don't bother filling up through the gearstick. Stick to the fill/drain plugs underneath.

The plugs will be in tight so make sure you have a torque wrench to get some leverage and crack them loose. ALWAYS start with the fill plug (higher up) incase you cant crack the drain plug loose.

Anymore questions let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...