Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys had a leaking injector that i pulled out today. going to replace all the o rings on them. 2 questions. should i do anything more then just replace the o ring to stop leaking ive heard they leak alot. and can anyone confirm the size of my injectors. numbers i found on the injector are:

jecs

A46-000001

5L31 2827

injectors are in a rb20det

Cheers Adam

Edited by boardman

hey guys had a leaking injector that i pulled out today. going to replace all the o rings on them. 2 questions. should i do anything more then just replace the o ring to stop leaking ive heard they leak alot. and can anyone confirm the size of my injectors. numbers i found on the injector are:

jecs

A46-000001

5L31 2827

injectors are in a rb20det

Cheers Adam

I think I've got a couple of dozen laying around if you want some. You can have them

Never mind I just read your info haha. Ill try these seals out first and see how they go if it is the injector we will organise postage and stuff. Should I be putting anything extra on it to seal it up like silicone or just the o ring.

Never mind I just read your info haha. Ill try these seals out first and see how they go if it is the injector we will organise postage and stuff. Should I be putting anything extra on it to seal it up like silicone or just the o ring.

Rubber grease the oring on top but not on the bottom of the injector. Reuse the spacer at the top.

If you don't have rubber grease, vasoline works also.

Buy the orings from Nissan. Non genuine ones aren't the same size always

i replaced the o rings today couldnt get genuine ones from nissan but went to a injector place and he gave me 6 new ones. put them in and the same injector is still leaking. looks like its the actual injector that is leaking not the seal so i will need a new injector. Daniel ill pm you and see what we can sort out cheers

There is no hose going into it. That's Rb30.

Mate, pretty sure I can get them to you for $15 freight or wherever you are.

I'll clear my messages so you can try sending me your address

yep, sorry you are correct, the 30E is top fed hose and the 20DET rail sits right on top of the injector with a rubber seal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...