Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

STANDARD FUEL CAPS. I don't think mine is the right one. Even though it says Nissan on it, it doesn't seem to keep pressure in the tank at all.

I have determined this from not hearing any 'pshhhhhhhhhh..' sound when I undo the cap. I swapped over the cap with my mum's S13 Silvia, and still no 'built-up-pressure' sound at the petrol station.

Also, if the conditions are 'right', I can see that hazy petrol 'vapour' pouring from the fuel flap, and sometimes the smell inside the cabin is quite bad, (girlfriend hates it...I do too). I am wondering if this could be causing the smell inside my car. All else looks OK, no leaks..etc. Cars performance seems ok (seems!!!).

I know the car has been involved in a 'rear' accident in Japan. (How bad? ...Don't know)

Is there an 'identifier' on the cap that clearly states it to be R33 specific?

Thanks,

Mark.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

please keep responses coming....I need a definate answer for this one...I'm loosing brain cells thru the fumes!! I'm sure it's got something to do with the cap, and maybe 'blow-back'.

thanx!!

mine is the same, the r33 cap on my car has holes on it if you detatch the cap part from the screw in part...(lol hard to explain) There are holes in the screw in part which i imagine vent out pressure, why I dont know, you can buy new ones from workshops or websites though and im sure it will fix your problem.

mine is the same, the r33 cap on my car has holes on it if you detatch the cap part from the screw in part...(lol hard to explain) There are holes in the screw in part which i imagine vent out pressure, why I dont know, you can buy new ones from workshops or websites though and im sure it will fix your problem.

Jimbo seems to have the right noise... I know my cap works on the S13 Silvia, but not the other way around. (by working I actually mean making the pressure noise on unscrewing)

Surely there must be some consistancy here?

Thanx 33NIZ,

Mark

please keep responses coming....I need a definate answer for this one...I'm loosing brain cells thru the fumes!! I'm sure it's got something to do with the cap, and maybe 'blow-back'.

thanx!!

All Nissan fuel caps are (should?) be the same. Hence you can buy a "Nismo" branded fuel cap and it will fit on any Nissan.

This also makes mass production of the part cheaper which makes sense.

My cap does not make a pressure release type noise and I do not smell any fuel vapour inside the car.

All Nissan fuel caps are (should?) be the same. Hence you can buy a "Nismo" branded fuel cap and it will fit on any Nissan.

This also makes mass production of the part cheaper which makes sense.

My cap does not make a pressure release type noise and I do not smell any fuel vapour inside the car.

Thanx SEWID...

Production technique Seems Logical, inconsistency in other's standard fuel cap's isn't.

Ta.

it's not the actual plastic cap, but the hunk of metal the cap srews into, was not sealed when it was changed over at compliance...

u have to get one the right size, and then seal it somehow... dont use silicone though.

AH HAH!!!..........now that u mention it Z, my filler spout does look new (and dodgy) and aftermarket.

..........mmmmmmmmmmmm

WOT 2 DO ???????

Thanx sooo much Zahos!!

Keep em coming in everyone!!!!!!!!! this is interesting stuff...starting to make sense a little....

OK well I think i have the answer. My car leaks out vapour and does no have the schweppes pshhhhhh sound. But I looked at my mates cap which works properly and the difference was a real thin rubber ring which I remember taking off the fuel cap cause it had already half fallen off when i first bought the car.

OK well I think i have the answer. My car leaks out vapour and does no have the schweppes pshhhhhh sound. But I looked at my mates cap which works properly and the difference was a real thin rubber ring which I remember taking off the fuel cap cause it had already half fallen off when i first bought the car.

thanx CR33

Do u think that pressure, or lack there of, can create performance problems in the fuel delivery department, or compromise safety at all?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...