Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Im having issues with the auto in my R34 GT-T when it's cold.

When it's first driven of a day, the auto is super boggy like something is holding it back, both in tiptronic and drive.

When the revs get over around 2500rpm, it cruises along a little smoother, but then i shift gear or it shifts itself (in drive), and it bogs again. It happens in the morning when i go to work, and again in the arvo on my way home.

It also makes a whining kinda sound when cold, its not too loud but i can definitely hear it.

It takes about 10 minutes of driving to get it warm and shifting like it should. Once it's warm, life is good.

The A/T light flashes 1 long, 16 short....and i cannot for the life of me find this error code.

Ive searched for a while both on here and google to see if anyone has experienced a similar issue, but most seem to get the sensors go and get stuck in 3rd, and mine does not get stuck in 3rd.

Please help someone...im trying to sell the car and i don't want to to sell it with a clapped out gearbox. :no:

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409994-r34-at-boggy-when-cold-at-flashing/
Share on other sites

The fluid is about 1500kms old StevenCJR31, level is good and it still looks new, i don't what fluid was used in it last time it was changed though.

and it doesn't smell burnt Moodles2

It's already a tiptronic box thanks Haines

I thought that the box might just be dying because it's stock and pushing out 225rwkw...and i was told from the guys that tuned it that it should die around 220kw...

Does yours get stuck in 3rd for ages then all of a sudden a big shud into 4th?

Mine goes into 4th all the time, i never get stuck in 3rd...mine's just feeling somewhat "restricted" when it's cold.

I wouldnt say it does a big shud, you could be cruising and it will sit at 2200rpm @60kph in 3rd for a while, and then at some random point, usually after 2-3 mins, the revs drop back to 1600 and it shifts up into 4th. You cant manually shift up either. It will only do it once, after that it will shift into 4th normally for the rest of the drive. If i drive it again an hour or two later, the problem doesnt happen- its only if the car sits there a while. It started doing it occasionally but now it does it 9 out of 10 times in the morning when i drive to work or home again at night.

Edited by camr33

My non triptonic 33 box had the exact same issue with the exact same error code. Got worse and worse, now 3rd gear won't engage at all and it's pretty selective about when 4th wants to work.Will just be replacing it as I believe 3rd gear will need new clutches, belt or maybe both.

I also have this transmission and have the "get stuck in 3rd and wont go to 4th for awhile" but I've put it down to just heat, it just won't go into fourth until warmed up.

I noticed this way more when I got a much, much much larger AT Cooler installed by MV autos, and it doesn't have a thermostat. Meaning it takes a lot longer to go into 4th and if cruising around on a cold day will actually shift back into enforced third due to the fact it gets too cold. Dunno if that is actually what is occurring but it seems to 'fit' with my limited understanding of it all.

Thats actually what I was thinking- that it may be temp based.

Hopefully its not an issue in the longterm and causing damage to the transmission! The transmission cover over the shifter looks like its been removed at some stage as its a bit worse for wear. Dont know if a transmission cooler has been put in though, I have also heard that a solanoid might be on its way out and causing the problem.

This is, according to google, a pretty common problem in r34's but there doesn't seem to be much info about what is causing it and how to fix it...

I have seen a few english translation user manuals on ebay, I wonder if there will be any useful info on tremah's probelm in there?

Yeah mate, sorry to hijack your thread lol. Wasn't trying to go of topic. Hopefully its not your transmission crapping itself, maybe take it to an a/t specialist and run it past them.

Is it changing gears smoothly?

Tiptronic boxes come up pretty often on gumtree for cheap so if the box is screwed, hopefully it won't be to costly to fix...

I am converting to manual. I had the box looked at, and im the 5th person that has gone into this mechanic with the exact same issue with an R34 tiptronic box. His recommendation was to throw it in the bin when i get it home lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...