Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone.

I am currently importing an 89 gtr.

My main goal is to not loose any money when I sell it.

1989

Genuine 118000kms with log books.

timming belt changed etc.

Engine is in great condition.

Exhaust from turbo back

Original panels

apexi pod filters

Adjustable suspension

aftermarket shift knob

Gunmetal grey

r33 gtr wheels

How much would you pay for this car next year?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41001-how-much-would-you-pay-for-this-gtr/
Share on other sites

How much would you pay for this car next year?
That's very hard to say. Before this year their weren't many/any R32 GTR's under $20k so it's quite hard to workout what the market will be like in 8mths time, i'd say you would be lucky with $17-19k.

Its all about quality. Plenty of clapped out GT-Rs may hit the very low 20s (although I find it hard to believe they will fall substantially into the teens), but I expect quality cars will still be middle to upper 20s, with special examples hitting the 30s.

That's a j-spec car that came through yesterday isn't it? Its a hard way to make money if your not a car dealer so I wouldn't bother doing it unless you actually want the car. That being said, you will probably break even or get close to break even.

LW.

no way youll buy a 89 gtr for under 20k even in a year. i recon about 20-23. dont forget they are still hard to get now for 25 if your lucky, you may find onr for about that.
So what about the 51 sold (of 91) for <$20k (plus onroad costs) on the www.prestigemotorsport.com.au website of which most have the same (mods) as what 'druzilla' has?

i have already seen all the ones sold, but i cant belive your telling me youd buy one of those 89 model gtr's in the condition they are in on the wesite, he should be giving them away for freee. only people who want to get away with saying they own a gtr and not showing it will buy it. sorry dude but you have to admit there all shit for that price.

So what about the 51 sold (of 91) for <$20k (plus onroad costs) on the www.prestigemotorsport.com.au website of which most have the same (mods) as what 'druzilla' has?

Well, for starters, on road costs are substantial. You usually also have to allow for items like car alarms, tires, servicing and maybe a few fixups.

Plus we are talking on the domestic market. Import will always -- well, unless the government does something truely stupid -- be an option, but its rather a big hassle, so I don't expect vast numbers of people to go through the process.

LW.

Its all about quality. Plenty of clapped out GT-Rs may hit the very low 20s (although I find it hard to believe they will fall substantially into the teens), but I expect quality cars will still be middle to upper 20s, with special examples hitting the 30s.

That's a j-spec car that came through yesterday isn't it? Its a hard way to make money if your not a car dealer so I wouldn't bother doing it unless you actually want the car. That being said, you will probably break even or get close to break even.

LW.

yes thats the car..

i thought i would be able to sell it for around 26~27 k? :)

maby importing isnt worth it..

I have already paid J-spec $500 which doesnt get refunded :) :bs!:

but i cant belive your telling me youd buy one of those 89 model gtr's in the condition they are in on the wesite, he should be giving them away for freee.
The question was "How much do you think it will be worth next year" not "Would you buy an 89GTR from Prestige Motorsport".

Have you seen any pics of druzilla's GTR ?

Have you driven druzillas GTR ?

All we have (in this thread) is a list of modifications to go on which is why I answered 17-19k (everything depreciates, even Porsche's and GTR's ... although slowly). The difference between an average condition GTR and an perfection condition GTR could be $5k.

The difference between an average condition GTR and an perfection condition GTR could be $5k.

I would expect the difference to be more like $5-10k. Good quality cars are hard to find and command a premium. I know for a fact that your are not getting much change out of 1,200,000 Yen for a quality example.

LW.

I would expect the difference to be more like $5-10k.
Everyone is different... for me their would be 3 categories...

1. "R32 GTR"

2. +5k = "Average R32 GTR"

3. +5k = "Good R32 GTR"

So the #1's are the $20k's, #2's are the $25k's and the #3's are the $30k's (from the Prestige List of 89 models).

yes thats the car..

i thought i would be able to sell it for around 26~27 k?  :)

maby importing isnt worth it..

I have already paid J-spec $500 which doesnt get refunded  :)   :bs!:

hang on...you were buying only to import it then sell it to make money....you ask an online forum *after* you pay for it what it would be worth....and then you say its bullsh1t that $500 isn't refundable?

hang on...you were buying only to import it then sell it to make money....you ask an online forum *after* you pay for it what it would be worth....and then you say its bullsh1t that $500 isn't refundable?

^^ I'm with stupid :(

Seriously, you won't be selling that for $27k IMHO. A dealer might be able to manage that since they will provide some warranty, but as a private sale, forget it.

LW.

but then again, what are the 'newer' R32 GTR's worth???  I think you could sell it for mid 20's (as long as it is half decent!)  A GTR, is still a GTR....

Age is basically irrelevant when it comes to the R32 GT-Rs IMHO as nothing basically changed. Again, its all about the quality/condition of a particular example.

LW.

yes thats the car..

i thought i would be able to sell it for around 26~27 k?  :(

maby importing isnt worth it..

I have already paid J-spec $500 which doesnt get refunded  :mad:   :bs!:

:(:D:rant::mad: :mad: :rofl: :rofl:

yes thats the car..

i thought i would be able to sell it for around 26~27 k?  

maby importing isnt worth it..

If your sole goal is to make money, there is always the risk you'll only get what its worth. And it may take months of stuffing around, buyers wasting your time, blah de ****ing blah. Selling a car is a prick, and every ass wants to "get a deal" and pay less than its worth. And if everybody else knows that you probably got it for like $17-18k they're not going to pay $27k for it when they can import it themselves!

Buyers will buy on condition (and age) and you don't really know that is until it gets here. Could all look good in photos and reports, but the engine could be foobar'ed.. nobody is even going to pay $18k for a GTR with foobar'ed engine unless they've really got grand plans for it. So you just have to wait..

The *only* way it would be worth more, would be if/when the import laws change to restrict 15 year cars. Then as no more can come in you might be able to make a profit.

Maybe you shouldn't be so rash next time....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...