Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan skyline R33

Car is a 1993 model, factory fitted Rb25det & manual 5 Speed.

Another feature of this car is its fitted with an Active LSD rear diff, rare factory option found in series 3 GTR's

Looking for $10k Firm as is, but price is negotiable im happy to take $8k for the car minus the 2 Front Recaro seats & Brembos, Factory items will be supplied.

Rego and RWC will be supplied with sale so the new owner can just drive it away ready to transfer into their name,

Rego remaining is 11 and a half months so roughly 12th september 2013.

If you need to contact me for anything, my number is 0432544363 (please contact me via my number as im not always on SAU)

Car is located in St Albans 30 minutes west of melbourne CBD

Specs listed below:

-162xxx kms

-Matte black paint job done 3 months ago

-Lowered 40mm (legal height)

-RB25DET & 5 speed manual

-Brembo brakes from GTR v-spec

-19x9.5 & 19x10.5 varrstoen wheels

-Series 3 GTR xenon projector headlights (custom fitted)

-Complete GTR interior, inc. Seats & door trims

-New exedy HD clutch good for 300rwkw

-11 months rego

-RSR exhaust (sounds really tough)

post-59775-0-25576000-1348502060_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-62873700-1348502073_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-90733500-1348502081_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-80103400-1348502090_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-68757900-1348502099_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-27520400-1348502108_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-34949900-1348502117_thumb.jpgpost-59775-0-47049800-1348502129_thumb.jpg

Edited by RJ06

Hey mate what offsets are you running on the varrstoens? How much did you have to flare the fenders to accommodate this fitment too (any rubbing issues as well)? Have you had any issues with the car over your ownership?

Genuinely interested.

Hey mate what offsets are you running on the varrstoens? How much did you have to flare the fenders to accommodate this fitment too (any rubbing issues as well)? Have you had any issues with the car over your ownership?

Genuinely interested.

Hey buddy wheels are +12 offset both front and rears, Guards were flared approx 20mm to suit wheels.

The only rubbing issue is with the front guard liners, which rub only on full lock and scrubbing from big bumps on the road. Rears dont rub on the guards at all.

Only problem ive had since being on the road was a defect due to the car having an exhaust which is a little bit too loud for their liking, long story short went through the Burnley tunnel in Melbourne and police handed me a defect.

Bump!

Wheels are no longer for sale. Comes with some 17"s with good tires.

10k come and get it!

9.5k if sold this weekend!

Also forgot to mention Roadworthy certificate has been obtained so it has another 28 days from now until it expires! :)

Not in a rush to sell it anymore guys, and for those low balling me dont bother.

Going to put the price to $11,000 complete or $9500 without the wheels.

Thanks guys! :)

Looks like good stuff. I'm usually not a big fan of matte black on cars as I think the colour kindda makes the car looks like a old shit box. But this 1 really changes my thoughts :) good luck!

Looks like good stuff. I'm usually not a big fan of matte black on cars as I think the colour kindda makes the car looks like a old shit box. But this 1 really changes my thoughts :) good luck!

Thanks for the kind words buddy! :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

If I wasnt happy with my own ride, i'd be pretty keen to get this, sounds pretty neat.

I wanted to know where you got the series 3 headlight and how they needed (or the car) to be modded to suit? I have a series 1.5, has the series 1 front end like yours looks to. And i really want this sort of head lights. Cheers.

I know this is old, i want to know about parts used on this vehicle to purchase them for my own!
I'm keen to find a set of headlights like used on this one.
Obsessive was the only muppet asking about the wheels. Pete33r was asking about where the lip was purchased.

Info on the headlights would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...