Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a 4" intake off the turbo reduced to 3" to pod filter. Tuner reccomends a better flowing rear housing and a bigger turbine wheel.

He also mentioned when they unbolted the exhaust it gained 20rwkw.

Then u have an exhaust restriction

If he gained 20rwkw from unbolting the exhaust (which does sound like a restriction for sure), raise the boost to about 18psi and add a few degrees of timing from removing the restriction, still sounds like he'll still be falling abit short of where the GTX3076R should be?

If he gained 20rwkw from unbolting the exhaust (which does sound like a restriction for sure), raise the boost to about 18psi and add a few degrees of timing from removing the restriction, still sounds like he'll still be falling abit short of where the GTX3076R should be?

Spot on. But with the restriction gone anything can happen

Spot on. But with the restriction gone anything can happen

Very true mate. Will be interesting to see what happens when he gets it re-tuned after removing the restriction.

Keep us updated with how you go GotsWapan :)

If he gained 20rwkw from unbolting the exhaust (which does sound like a restriction for sure), raise the boost to about 18psi and add a few degrees of timing from removing the restriction, still sounds like he'll still be falling abit short of where the GTX3076R should be?

With the non-garrett turbine housing possibly being the rest of the problem we might have the answer.

IMHO, if I had my time again I would opt for a low-mount over a high-mount simply due to the EPA emissions risk when the po-po pop the bonnet.

With a low-mount, you can keep it hidden and stealth looking if you play your cards right. With a high-mount, it doesn't matter what you paint black or how much heatshielding you use, there's no hiding the aftermarket turbo.

Try sort out the issues with the low-mount if you can, but if you really want a high-mount..... just buy my car instead. I've already sorted out all the headaches, just jump in and drive hahaha :P

Edited by turbodragon

Its a 4" intake off the turbo reduced to 3" to pod filter. Tuner reccomends a better flowing rear housing and a bigger turbine wheel.

He also mentioned when they unbolted the exhaust it gained 20rwkw.

bigger turbine wheel??? maybe the tuner is the problem too.. be better off with an external gate on the 0.82rear, the internal 0.82 costs more anyway..

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...