Jump to content
SAU Community

In Tank Lift Pump To Support 6-800 Rwhp

Kierin

By Kierin,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kierin Explorer

Kierin

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys and Girls

In the market for an in-tank lift pump that can support approximately 6-800 RWHP (C34). Car will not make it straight up but I like to avoid doing things twice. Already have an out of tank setup with surge tank using Bosch 044's. A supplier of proposed pumps would help so that I can purchase it quickly.

Sorry for not researching this thoroughly myself, I only have a short period of time to look online when away for weeks at a time for work.

Thanks in advance, Kierin

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

deatchworks dw300 is a 300 l/hr drop in replacement

no idea if this is enough for you but seeing as you have 044's already means you just need something to keep the swirl pot full

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure this would suffice ..the lift pump is not working against turbo pressure and will easily deliver enough fuel to the surge tank:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-516957124.htm

here is the other one if you prefer:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-517719331.htm

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I'm putting a DW200 on the shopping list, I keep thinking about the day the stock pump will fail.

Yep its better to replace it at a time of your choosing rather than have it fail on a rainy day miles from home so you have to add the price of a tow truck to the job.
BLACK BEAST Explorer

BLACK BEAST

Posted
Posted

Ive just installed a walbro 340lph as a lift pump to surgetank but have ethanol sensor in the return line back to main tank which only flows 200lph

Is there a problem with slightly pressurising the surgetank at idle? .. will fine open throttle ?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The ethanol sensor should be on the return line from the rail, as close to the last injector as possible. Otherwise you may have issues when you swap fuels and they haven't mixed properly.

A small amount of pressure in the surge tank shouldn't give you dramas, how did you measure the sensor flow? I was worried it wouldn't flow enough...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...