Jump to content
SAU Community

Heater Not Working? M35

Sage222

By Sage222,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sage222 Rising Star

Sage222

Posted
Posted

Just did a search and didnt find anyone with the same problem. (I hope that's not the case!).

Yesterday found my heater doesnt appear to work.. Fans come on though no heat... (going to try air con this afternoon).

Anyone seen this before?

I hope its something simple... (though it rarely is!).

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411214-heater-not-working-m35/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

What temp did you have it set to? 18 degrees won't work, it just blows outside air.

If the heater stops working you most probably have low coolant. It only takes a few cups to be missing for it to stop flowing through the heater circuit. Wait for it to cool down completely before checking it, then go through the Voodoo bleeding procedure, again and again.

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

Mine's the opposite!

If its set to 18deg on aircon it blows cold, but on anything else, it blows hot (even set to 18.5deg)!

Ditto on mine, only since my accident though. Im surprised the boss hasn't made you fix it yet :P

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

could be a few things. there is a motor that drives the temperature control, which opens/closes a valve to the heater core. and also down under the steering wheel, to the left, on the removeable panel is a small vent with a pipe from the AC. check to make sure thats operational. i believe there is a sensor in there.

also make sure the dash sensor for sunlight is plugged in and/or operational

i have spares of them all, if required

  • Thanks 1
Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

could be a few things. there is a motor that drives the temperature control, which opens/closes a valve to the heater core. and also down under the steering wheel, to the left, on the removeable panel is a small vent with a pipe from the AC. check to make sure thats operational. i believe there is a sensor in there.

I know the one you're talking about, I'll have to check that out, I had that panel off to disconnect the VSS switch for my roadworthy inspection (Being able to alter your exhaust flow whilst driving is illegal *ugh*) so I may have missed that one

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Edit: Took too long to type. lol. You guys beat me to it.

You need to find the in cabin temp sensor, I think it might be under the steering wheel where you can see a little vent in the lower cover. It has a rubber tube attached to it. If this is the sensor, perhaps it is dirty or the hose has come off?

It will blow hot air until the temp has been reached under the dash, this may take a while with the vents blowing air on your face. Or the sensor is shagged?

  • Thanks 1
Sage222 Rising Star

Sage222

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

damn... just had a look at everything.. got coolant spray on both sides of the radiator.. looks like im up for a new radiator... :(

Anyone got a part number/price?

Scotty i take it your wreck has one still? :)

Is this a common thing to fail? if so should prob get a new one..

Edited by Sage222
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

The top tanks are usually the first thing to go. Hot coolant and being made of plastic makes the brittle, and they crack. Either that or the seal around the top tank.

Bottom tank is usually ok, becuase its cool by the time it gets down there.

Rad shops can replace top tanks, but easier option is the wrecker one I guess.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

A new replacement one isn't cheap, around $350 - $400.

I have a second hand one in the wreck for sale, and I may also get rid of my new stock one as it is too thin for the track. It's only a few months old... Let me know.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

the good thing is, a leaky radiator will last for at least 3 months.

mine leaked for ages. it was only seeping

Probably not something you want to risk with summer just around the corner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Duncan · Posted

      Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • GTSBoy
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • No Crust Racing
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By No Crust Racing · Posted

      Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
×
×
  • Create New...