Jump to content
SAU Community

Craked Brembo Caliper

Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Pulled off my wheels to re-paint the brembos on my 33 GTR and the front driver has a a couple cracks in it.

Wasnt until i started spraying them red that i noticed the cracks. The black covered it up.

Has any one had this happen before?

Whats the chances of getting a single caliper?

Anyone know where to start looking?

Are any other models or different cars even that run the same brembos??

Is it just heat that causes it??

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411453-craked-brembo-caliper/
Share on other sites
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

As above, looks like it has a fair few layers of paint on it. And usually it's the old paint that shows cracks like that.

The second pic is where the two halves of the caliper are joined together, not a crack :)

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

not a good result.

i suggest that alarm bells should have been ringing when the bleed nipples, pistons and piston seals were all covered in that shit red paint.

bin.

Edit: did they come on the car or did you buy them. There's a fair amount of meat removed - i personally wouldn't be confident continuing to use these calipers.

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh no they were black. I didn't notice until I started rubbing back. Again didn't take any notice. I sprayed it red and because of the colour saw the cracking lines. So rubbed it back to metal to find body filler. Got out the hammer and screw driver. Gave it a hit and out popped body filler.

Have since finished the other 3 and they are fine.

Very weird.

Now I have to find just one!

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

yeah bummer - that's really weird that only one of the front pair is like this.

don't know how you'd go with getting a single; you might need to get a pair and keep the other one for parts if necessary.

plus if you are going to repaint then you don't need something that looks great - maybe you can save some coin there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...