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Fantastic looking car mate and tastefully modded.

I have the front bar brake ducts on my car and they have dedicated pipe work from them to the front rotors. My rotors have a braket on the back with a metal ring that ducting can be hose clamped to - the ducting runs along the caster rod (tied on with cable ties) and than onto a collector attached to the lower front bar. I don't know if mine is the stock set-up or not, but yours doesn't appear to have the metal ring for attachment so i'd say it isn't

My gtr is currently in transit between states, otherwise i would grap some photo's for better explanation as it would be fairly simple to make up the ring bracket and add the ducting.

I have ducting that runs to the front calipers as well. So that part could be standard, cause mine is 100% stock and untouched/driven.

Will grab some photos, but don't want to ruin someone else's thread.

I have ducting that runs to the front calipers as well. So that part could be standard, cause mine is 100% stock and untouched/driven.

Will grab some photos, but don't want to ruin someone else's thread.

Feel free.

The photos will help me work out if and how I could build some dedicated ducts for me brakes.

Big fan of this car, particularly loving the way that attention has been paid to all facets - not just the engine.

Future plans for the car? Any track time for it?

Also, you might benefit from putting an add on vent or different front bar on the car, to allow the hot air from the cooler duct to leave the engine bay. Simple addition as shown in image?

Also is your bov plumbed back to the intake?

post-76002-0-13039300-1352429028_thumb.jpg

Big fan of this car, particularly loving the way that attention has been paid to all facets - not just the engine.

Future plans for the car? Any track time for it?

Also, you might benefit from putting an add on vent or different front bar on the car, to allow the hot air from the cooler duct to leave the engine bay. Simple addition as shown in image?

Also is your bov plumbed back to the intake?

Thanks, certainly a credit to the previous owner.

No, the current HKS blow off valve is not plumbed back into the intake

Future plans, hmmm, that is an interesting one.

Here is what I am thinking...

- Built / Forged bottom end so I can up the boost and rev harder, this will really bring the current set up to life, 400+rwkw no probs.

- Updates to the audio, including new splits up from (probably Alpine Type R), a new Amp and Subs in the boost (again, probably Alpine) and new double din head unit (again, probably Alpine)

- New set of brake pads (Endless SSM) for the street as the current pads are way to dusty as daily driven for my white wheels

- Nismo oil cooler duct (as you have mentioned) or Nismo S-Tune front bar (Z-Tune is done to death these days)

- New front strut brace (bit more bling in the bay)

- Maybe some softer springs for the Tein Monoflex coil overs, or an entirely new set of coil overs (something more streetable)

Honestly, there is probably not much more I can do?!

The previous owner did such a thorough job!!

Sorry, it just looks like you have the plumb back adapter on your bov, so I assumed it was plumbed back.

Sounds like you've got some good personal touches planned out though which is great to hear.

By the sounds of it, the car will be a dedicated streeter, which is personally fine, but can you really justify a built engine for such an application? Surely the 300+ kw it's already putting out is plenty for the street. At the end of the day, it is your car and you can obviously do what you want with it.

I will be following this thread and am eager to see your future plans unfold.

Sorry, it just looks like you have the plumb back adapter on your bov, so I assumed it was plumbed back.

The plumb back section on the BOV is, from what I understand, how HKS released a race version of the SSQ BOV. The plumb back pipe is molded into the body of the BOV, not a bolt on, saw your eyes did not deceive you, there is a plumb back section on the BOV, just not being utilised.

By the sounds of it, the car will be a dedicated streeter, which is personally fine, but can you really justify a built engine for such an application? Surely the 300+ kw it's already putting out is plenty for the street.

Yes, pretty much a full time streeter. You are probably right, when it comes time to consider the forged bottom end I probably won't be able to justify the price tag, but damn, 400+ rwkw is so inviting.

Nothing major to report, just working on the audio system.

The car is running MB Quart Reference RVF 216 Splits front and rear.

The front passenger woofer crapped itself so instead of buying a new set of splits for the front I have saved my money and removed the rear speakers all together.

This has allowed me to use one of the rear woofers to replace the damaged front one.

With the money saved I will now by a 12" sub woofer and install this in the boot and power it from the bridged 2nd channel on the amp.

Should sound OK once all done.

20121111_180006.jpg

20121111_175903.jpg

20121111_175925.jpg

Any reason you decided to remove the rears completely?

If you ever have to remove your fuel pump.

You do what you've done, do that again, and all the metal units on the fuel well cover. A mission of a job.

Any reason you decided to remove the rears completely?

It made sense as I could use one of the 6.5" woofers from the rear to replace the damaged front woofer.

This saved me the money of buying a new set of splits.

With the Alpine PDX-4.100 amp and MB Quart RVF216 splis the sound I get with just the fronts is great!! It is really clear and concise and I actually prefer it without the rear "fill" the rear speakers were giving.

I am picking up a JL Audio 12" Slot Ported Sub and box tonight which will be powered of the 2 channels I now have free.

I will bridge them and this will put 200+ RMS into the sub, which should sound nice.

I will get more photos as I go through the install.

Just updating the exhaust details from the spec list on page 1.

EXHAUST

- Nismo Z-Tune Cast Dump Pipes

- Midori Seibi 90mm Titanium Front Pipes (was listed as Power House Amuse)

- 3" high flow metal cat with modified inlet expanded to 90mm (was listed as Tomei De Cat Pipe)

- HKS Super Turbo Cat Back (was listed as Tomei Expreme Ti Cat Back)

I was informed by the previous owner that the front pipes were from Power House Amuse, but after lots of research I can't find anywhere that Amuse have ever released them.

I then looked at the Midori Seibi Titanium front pipes and can see that this is actually the one I have.

http://www.nengun.co...-gtr-front-pipe

So the specs are now updated and current.

nengun-3846-06-midoriseibi-titanium_gtr_front_pipe.jpg

  • Like 1

Also an update to the stereo specs on page 1.

STEREO

- Pioneer AVH-P6850DVD Double Din Head Unit

- Alpine PDX-4.100 Mono Block Amplifier (was listed as Alpine PDX1000)

- MB Quart RVF216 Reference Splits in front (was listed as Q-Line)

- No rear speakers - have removed them (was listed as MB Quart Reference Splits in rear)

- JL Audio CP112-W0v3 12" BassWedge Slot Ported 4 Ω Sub Woofer

The sub has come up really well and sounds great.

I have just bridged channels 3 and 4 to power the sub and left channels 1 and 2 to power the front splits.

I just need to put a floor in the boot now as the standard ply wood over the spare wheel is not really suitable.

Once I put a new sub floor in I can then secure the Sub to the floor so it will not move around.

20121117_195230.jpg

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