Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I got a Cobb and have been using Stage 2 & LC5 for my ADM2009 on the road since. Great burst of power and improved drivability.

(I'm on 98RON Shell vPower, HKS res midpipe, K&N air filter element)

I took it to Phillip Is (18 deg C) and Sandown yesterday (23 deg C).

I noticed flashing of the boost gauge - which I think means that there is "knocking". This usually happens after the 3rd or 4th lap, especially if I hit the rev limiter. Sometimes it occurs even at 5000rpm in 2nd gear and tends to linger for about 5 to 10 seconds. I feel the car is not as fast as it normally is.

How do I fix this?

Is this BAD for the engine?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411598-knocking-with-stage-2-cobb/
Share on other sites

Thing is, it doesn't do it when I drive on the road.

The Stage 2 is the Off-the-shelf map that came with the Cobb, which I thought was conservative.

What parameters should I log?

Thanks for the reply, Martin. I received your Trans Fluid 35TML last week and filled it up before Sandown. Goes nicely.

Sounds just like the tune is street conservative, but not track conservative (3-4 laps heat++ etc) - they are two totally different scenarios really.

Good news is it's not a major fix required, but certainly shouldn't keep trying to replicate it! Knock = bad.

So maybe after 2 laps have an easy 1 rather than going for 3-4 (until its fixed) :)

Does that meant if I get a track-oriented tune, it would generate less power? Because it would have to dial down the timing or boost to cope with heat.

Would larger injectors to fix this?

No point in speculating about it, you need to generate a log of some third and fourth gear pulls and then let me have a look through it. Either that or get the right map for your car running Aussie 98 fuel - such as the tune we supplied for Duncan Forrests GTR that won the NSW Supersprint championship two years in a row. No knocking, plenty of power.

OTS Cobb maps are ok, but they tend to not be a bit sketchy when pushing the limits of our 98 fuel - as they simply dont calibrate on it in the US. Regardless of what you do, that flashing engine ligh it something to take note of, and try to avoid if the idea of rebuilding an engine scares you even just a little bit :)

If you want someone local (Bayswater-Vic) the guys at Racepace can put it on the dyno for you and they have the Cobb tuning software.

9762 9421

But I've seen a few R35's knock at Sandown and PI as they have a lot of engine load at those tracks.

Ok maxzugkraft I have had a chance to have a look at a few of your looks. Looks like the tune is working really really nicely, the only time there was any indicated knock (false knock) was when you shifted on the rev limiter. The yellow line in the picture below is 'knock' and as you can see it stays on zero the whole length of the run...which is very nice :)

486666_10151212210434571_56066567_n.jpg

Thanks Martin.

I can't see your picture. There is a question mark instead.

Will this tune work for warmer weather? 25-28deg C?

Bear in mind the log was done at 15 deg C ambient temp.

Is it running too rich, as I'm getting a lot more black soot on back now.

Thanks Martin.

I can see your screenshot now.

Now I can use full power without holding back!

Can't wait to get back on the track!

Hope to see lap times plummet.

Good job. Cheers!

If you want someone local (Bayswater-Vic) the guys at Racepace can put it on the dyno for you and they have the Cobb tuning software.

9762 9421

But I've seen a few R35's knock at Sandown and PI as they have a lot of engine load at those tracks.

Would you recommend some further intercooler upgrades on top of the custom dyno tune?

Pinging at 18degC or 23degC ambient temp is pretty bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...