Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I put in jvc/mp3 unit in my r31 over the weekend. Looks really pweety, but of course its already scrambling my ancient stock front speakers with any form of bass, treble... or actually anything :Oops: . Yes, they are that bad! I pulled them out and they are rated at a whopping 30watt. And i assume that is peak too. Could explain it :)

Whats a good 2 or 3 way 6.5" speaker around the $120 mark these days? Any recommendations?

I have an 2x75wRMS amp which has been sitting there for months - will probably use this, so they can't be too underpowered.

If i go further with the system in this car one day, i'll probably chuck them in the rear, and get some better splits for the front.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41164-cheap-but-reasonable-65/
Share on other sites

Gordon,

For that kind of money your not going to find something top of the range which im sure you already know:P

But who cares when its just your run about hehe :)

Quick question first though, did you wire the speakers up yourself..? Because in stock form they use a common ground, Im hoping you didnt wire them up that way because they can damage the headunit.

Are you doing all 4 speakers, or just rears or fronts..? Either way, Id recommend putting 3-ways in the front doors (or splits), and just some 2-ways in the back (or of after some kind of bass, 6 x 9's or even just a small sub, 10 inch so to speak).

Most of those speakers you supplied links to would probably do the job, I havent personally heard any of them, unsure on the JVC and Panasonic speakers. Usually Kenwood seem to make a reasonble quality speaker, usually not too bad bass to mid-range, but top end lacks a little. Thats only IMO though, which doesnt count for much lol. If you can, go somewhere where you can have a listen to all types and pick one that suits your preferences.

You could try some Jaycar splits, titanium series I think arent too bad for the dollars. Not 100% but go and have a listen, and even have a look through the R31 forums, as I think quite a few threads have come up on this type of topic.

Good luck, and give my brother a whack over the head next time you see him for me :)

Blaupunkt GTX662.

plenty on bass and they have treble.

$120 a pair.

( I sell them)

or the component set GT217x. these are $160 pr and they are awesome!

with 25wrms they have lots of bass and a similar amount of treble. have a pair in my van currently. they sound like subs!

Damn.. oh well.. they would have been around my price point too.

In the end I went for the Kenwood KFC-M1620's. 3 ways, at 30wRMS - http://www.kenwood.com.au/car3.asp?gid=1&c...&cid=43&pid=348.

RRP is $125, and on special at $88 through Brisbane Car Sound. The 3 ways seemed to give a fair bit better sound than just the 2 ways i looked at (cheaper pioneers, other kenwoods, etc). Fairly good bass, but the separation isn't great. Will do fine for rear speakers later on if i get better ones for the front.

Do the trick, but you are right, not brilliant, nor as good as decent splits. But they sound good enough for my needs at the moment, as i basically had nothing (factory.. circa 1986 speakers...blerk).

Also low mount depth so no spacers were required, which saved me $20 or so for spacers (yes this is a very budget system at the moment!)

Hi mate,

i know u have already chosen your speaker, but i have a pair of Blaupunkt 6.5" speakers...they are 3 way, GT317s... they are an awesome and expensive quality speaker. Retail for over 300!! i got them for my sis, but she didnt want em and they wont fit my 33 skyline so they are sitting, never used.

will sell for 200....these are BRAND NEW SPEAKERS!

oh well.

"you shnooze u lose"

Haro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...