Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid "Brakes, suspension, clutch, diff - I could go on but you get the idea"

Thanks again Im doing the clutch/ light weight flywheel with the 100k service. I have coilovers. Brakes isnt a bad idea but.

STATUS "should not be an issue, yes the r34 nistune has less tuneable addresses than other nistune ecus it wont have an issue (most are cold enrich issues on e85 on really big horsepower setups) , i do however recommend running the std bov to help alleviate the stalling... it is an issue with some setups on r34 ecus. We have made mid 400's on r34 nistunes so they are capable, you may just need to make a few compromises.

Thanks Im running std bov into a metal intake standard airbox z32

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I hate to brake it to you guys.

It is an issue.

Mainly with Auto cars. You jump on the brakes, bring it up to stall and let go of the throttle..... and basinga it stalls. 7/10 times.

This is plumb back bovs and everything set up correctly.

These are engines with cams and intakes make it worse.

This is on R34 computers. Almost ever other ecu you can change it

Yes I know. Type A have a smaller duration so they are going to be better for maintaining a factory/near factory idle.

Tomei haven't always done Type A and Type B in a Poncam so I'm sorry I confused you. I confused myself for a minute haha.

Type B aren't necessarily going to mess with idle much either but the fact is, you are better off with the 252 deg cam anyway. It better matches the 3071 for its efficiency range.

Hey Dan I'll record my idle for you.... It sounds factory in every way.... Type B poncams.... Not even a slight lump at 900-950rpm idle :)

Hey Dan I'll record my idle for you.... It sounds factory in every way.... Type B poncams.... Not even a slight lump at 900-950rpm idle :)

Yep, I believe you (although shouldn't it idle at 750-800rpm?)

Most of the problem with these cars with Nistune is when they have aftermarket large cams and plenum.

The point is, no one is saying it can't idle smoothly and not have problems, just that there is a risk involved. If it were auto, had type b cams and Nistune, it would be shit

Yeah the idle was set specifically to sound smooth.... Simply cus I asked for stealth :) I LOVE lumpy idles but don't need to give the boys in blue any excuse to lift the bonnet and annoy me

Yeah the idle was set specifically to sound smooth.... Simply cus I asked for stealth :) I LOVE lumpy idles but don't need to give the boys in blue any excuse to lift the bonnet and annoy me

me too, was given the choice.. but when its lumpy the engine sounds like it is half way between smooth and stalling, i think its done by leaning it a bit which i wasnt a fan of.

I have the feeling that the cams might possibly even make the turbo a bit laggy on a mildly modifed 3071/76?

Edited by SliverS2

Yes I know. Type A have a smaller duration so they are going to be better for maintaining a factory/near factory idle.

Tomei haven't always done Type A and Type B in a Poncam so I'm sorry I confused you. I confused myself for a minute haha.

Type B aren't necessarily going to mess with idle much either but the fact is, you are better off with the 252 deg cam anyway. It better matches the 3071 for its efficiency range.

They have had the type A's for ages as far as I know (neo RB25 engines). I tossed up between Type A's and B's around 7 years ago but was talked into type B's as I was assured there would be no losses down low just a fatter mid range. In hindsight, assuming I was going to install cams, I would choose the type A's to get the extra lift without the extra duration.

As I stated before the type B's have the slightest lump at idle but it is very slight and hardly worth mentioning.

For the OP, Dan has forgotten more than I will ever know so listen to what he is saying.

Yeh my Type-B's give me a slightly lumpy idle. Its actually more taking off in first that I can hear the difference, they have a deeper tone compared to factory cams.

Probably a bit off topic, I just wanted to chime in :D

me too, was given the choice.. but when its lumpy the engine sounds like it is half way between smooth and stalling, i think its done by leaning it a bit which i wasnt a fan of.

I have the feeling that the cams might possibly even make the turbo a bit laggy on a mildly modifed 3071/76?

bam.. on the money, with longer duration cams, you will need to run them a tad richer than stoich to get it to idle without wanting to stall. Or just bump up the revs, but then you look like a tool at the lights lol

The problem isn't that they don't idle. The problem is random stalling after accelleration/revving

Anyway, I've said what I needed to. I'm not the one who tunes this shit. I just see it causing problems. You can fit whatever you like but we are just trying to keep you informed of the 'possible' risks in doing so with certain setups

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...