Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's your setup?

Straight copy from my sig: Engine: Link G4 Plug-In, Greddy Profec B-Spec II EBC, Haltech 3 bar MAP sensor, externally gated Hypergear ATR43 G3, Turbosmart Compgate40, 1000cc Injector Dynamics injectors, Plazmaman FFP, Plazmaman 72mm throttle body, JJR 3" bellmouth dump/front pipe, VENOM 5" 100 cell cat, 3" custom Kermit Engineering exhaust, Walbro GSS-342 in-tank fuel pump, GReddy FMIC, AGP triple core alloy radiator, stock GTR bov, custom Pro Fabrications alloy oil catch can/radiator overflow combo with Earls fittings, Splitfire coilpacks, HKS fuel rail, Speedflow braided fuel and turbo lines, Performance Springs valve springs and retainers, Tomei Type-B Poncams, Headtorque custom bronze valve guides, ARP head studs.

Not exactly relevant to the original question haha :/

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Straight copy from my sig: Engine: Link G4 Plug-In, Greddy Profec B-Spec II EBC, Haltech 3 bar MAP sensor, externally gated Hypergear ATR43 G3, Turbosmart Compgate40, 1000cc Injector Dynamics injectors, Plazmaman FFP, Plazmaman 72mm throttle body, JJR 3" bellmouth dump/front pipe, VENOM 5" 100 cell cat, 3" custom Kermit Engineering exhaust, Walbro GSS-342 in-tank fuel pump, GReddy FMIC, AGP triple core alloy radiator, stock GTR bov, custom Pro Fabrications alloy oil catch can/radiator overflow combo with Earls fittings, Splitfire coilpacks, HKS fuel rail, Speedflow braided fuel and turbo lines, Performance Springs valve springs and retainers, Tomei Type-B Poncams, Headtorque custom bronze valve guides, ARP head studs.

Not exactly relevant to the original question haha :/

Lol yeah. You have a link. Pretty much the OPPOSITE of what we are talking about

Elite Racing

i can say that when i was revving it for example 2,3 gear (on fool boost) and for some reason i had to take of the throttle and push again right away it was stalling for sec and than starting pulling again , it was anoing tho

but i was thinking that was tunes fault not the cams .

Not sure :D

I hate to brake it to you guys.

It is an issue.

Mainly with Auto cars. You jump on the brakes, bring it up to stall and let go of the throttle..... and basinga it stalls. 7/10 times.

This is plumb back bovs and everything set up correctly.

These are engines with cams and intakes make it worse.

This is on R34 computers. Almost ever other ecu you can change it

I don't want to hear this sheldon..i mean shaun..lol

cheers

darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...