Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About a year ago i had a slight leak from the exhaust manifold where it had broken 2 nuts off, 1 on each end of the manifold, so i removed it and had the manifold sand blasted, painted and the face of it professionaly machined and i put all new studs in and a new gasket so i had done the lot. Anyways about 2 months ago it suddenly got loud under the hood so i figured i may need to tighten up the bolts thinking it was slightly leaking, anyways i removed everything i had to so i could get to it and when i removed the heat shield i nearly fainted, it had snapped clean in half......

All my hard work was for nothing.... i vaugly remember seeing i faint line on it and thinking it was a crack but after i gave it a bit of a sand it went away, then i thought stuff it this is going to take forever to clean properly so i took it to get sand blasted, i carnt remember where the line was so i dont know if it was where its snapped or not. Has anyone seen this before or had it happen to them

post-229-0-36267100-1350561992_thumb.jpg post-229-0-70787500-1350562015_thumb.jpg post-229-0-87459100-1350562039_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411849-snapped-exhaust-manifold/
Share on other sites

I've done it when my timing went retarded. Knew it had a fault but before having a chance to look at it I went up a long hill with too much throttle and turbine blades let go, pulled manifold from head and cracked and toasted wiring harness. Costly exercise :(

thankyou everyone for your replies, is checking the timing marks on the cam gears and crank lineup something i can do myself without any special equipment?

and if so can someome direct me in how to do it or direct me to a tutorial or something

both ends of tge manifold were warped and snapped the studs and i had it machined but since it was so warped and then machined it made the bolt holes not line up properly so i had to geind the bolt holes out a little so i could get it on, and i carnt remember if i followed the correct pattern for tightening up the manifold, could these things have helped cause this?

It is a pretty big gap in the break

i have removed the broken exhaust manifold and im curious if the colour of my valves is right, i was expecting everything to be black or at least very dark, my o2 sensor was about the same colour as the valves you can see in these pics

post-229-0-02345800-1351056811_thumb.jpg post-229-0-74999800-1351056844_thumb.jpg

post-229-0-56839300-1351056859_thumb.jpg post-229-0-44234000-1351056877_thumb.jpg

post-229-0-63785600-1351056893_thumb.jpg post-229-0-34870200-1351056915_thumb.jpg

I've done it when my timing went retarded. Knew it had a fault but before having a chance to look at it I went up a long hill with too much throttle and turbine blades let go, pulled manifold from head and cracked and toasted wiring harness. Costly exercise :(

how retarded was it to do this?

also how hard a tune was it?

I just found out my car has spent the last month at 4 degrees retarded via the CAS. Didnt do anything adverse and only seemed a tiby bit down on response and power...

how retarded was it to do this?

also how hard a tune was it?

I just found out my car has spent the last month at 4 degrees retarded via the CAS. Didnt do anything adverse and only seemed a tiby bit down on response and power...

My Cas bracket was broken and had twisted. It ran fine when cruising, but backfired under decel and was very low on power under accel.

Sometimes a minute after turning the car off it would backfire.

ahhh, yeah thats pretty retarded!

Mine only felt about 5-10% down on power n otherwise ran fine.

Sometimes a minute after turning the car off it would backfire.

and that my good man is Awe-wait for it-Some!!!!

have you seen the movie Uncle Buck? (now im showing my age...)

ahhh, yeah thats pretty retarded!

Mine only felt about 5-10% down on power n otherwise ran fine.

I was closer to 50% down. Was booked in to get checked but it didn't make it. Surprisingly on the highway I still got the same economy.

Changed mani, turbo, all studs etc and Cas bracket and it ran. It was using oil already before that so not sure exactly but 5 broken ringlands and 1 melted crown but that might have been due to a previous fuel pump failure when it started using oil.

All good now but :)

dang.

Well you might know a bit more about this question iv had for a while then.

If you say just crack/break 1 piston ringland. Would you have noticable symptoms or is it possible that just 1 or 2 would go unnotived besides a slight variation in pistion compressions via a compression test?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...