Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are you using the ignitor module or are you earth the coils straight from the computer

There is no earth from the computer to the packs, the two wires from the computer are power and pulse the earth is on the packs. Where is the ignitor module located, I was led to believe that the LTX12 controlled all of that.

yes i know that there is not individual earths ect what i should have said was are you still using a nissan ignitor module or is the computer pulsing the coils for you????

The computer pulses the coils or is meant too, the thing is i have pulse up to the packs but no spark at the plugs, plugs are all fine, and I thought I may have wired somthing wrong somewhere.

The packs themselves have three wires earth, power and pulse the microtech LTX12 has one main power wire and individual pulse wires(one wire for each pack) but no earth. I have wired the earth to the body but to no avail and because it is an engine conversion can't look for ignitor, even though the comp is meant do all that.

Any and all ideas are welcome because I go home and try them all out.

found a diagram of the LTX12 wiring for the packs looks easy but nothing happens. Have to find way of posting it is to big.

is there an earth to the cradle that holds the coils thats also earths to the head, make sure thats there and try using the earth off the engine before using the body.... check your plugs casue if they are iridiums or anything the foul up easily and once they have been drowned ie sitting there trying to start the car they will be rooted for life they are a waste of money get some stockies and gap them down to .8mm....

is there an earth to the cradle that holds the coils thats also earths to the head, make sure thats there and  try using the earth off the engine before using the body.... check your plugs casue if they are iridiums or anything the foul up easily and once they have been drowned ie sitting there trying to start the car they will be rooted for life they are a waste of money get some stockies and gap them down to .8mm....

Getting confusing, keep forgetting how my own computer works. There are the six wires for each individual pack (pulse) and two earth wires that join into one which was attached to the heads but i have moved to several other locations to no avail. I have even attached the earth from the packs to the computer earth, still nothing. I have tried to download the wiring diagram to the thread but it is to big, but you can check it out at, http://www.microtech-efi.com/downloads/65.pdf. Might give you some idea rather than my ranting.

is the rb25det a series 1 or series 2 motor??

series 1 have a igniter pack on the back or the coil cover .  

series 2 motors have the igniter in the coils themself's or in the comp..

you may have to get a igniter pack or module to fire the coils..

It is a series 2 the computer is supposed to ignite the packs thats why I have the LTX12 microtech computer. you can see it at, http://www.microtech-efi.com/downloads/65.pdf if you wish.

Having a closer look at that diagram, I reckon those are direct-fire coils, not coilpacks.

Instead of having a coil that fires into a distributor which then directs the spark to the appropriate plug, these are coils that fire directly to the spark plug, via a plug lead ie no distributor required, but multiple coils required.

I'd get back to Microtech and ask them how to solve the problem.

Having a closer look at that diagram, I reckon those are direct-fire coils, not coilpacks.  

Instead of having a coil that fires into a distributor which then directs the spark to the appropriate plug, these are coils that fire directly to the spark plug, via a plug lead ie no distributor required, but multiple coils required.

I'd get back to Microtech and ask them how to solve the problem.

Thanks Blind_elk, this is becoming an ever increasing nightmare, the projected budget has blown out of all proportion and simply can't afford to the car on the road all the help I get is very much appreciated.

Have been told to take the packs out and send them to microtech for testing, do you know how i can test them at home before i go to that expense.

Having a closer look at that diagram, I reckon those are direct-fire coils, not coilpacks.  

Instead of having a coil that fires into a distributor which then directs the spark to the appropriate plug, these are coils that fire directly to the spark plug, via a plug lead ie no distributor required, but multiple coils required.

I'd get back to Microtech and ask them how to solve the problem.

Thats right the paks are attached to the plugs and are wired direct to cpu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...