Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think merli said it before...but is there any point to gutting a cat for 3 or 5 extra Kw's? over the cost of health and the environment ??????

3inch from turbo to high flow cat, 31/4 cat back. Lag shouldn't be a problem.

If you think you can get away without putting one on (or want to chance it) then why pay $$$$ for one.(though i dont see the point in it to get one only to gut)

Aslo if your the type to worry about the environment then dont drive or even sell the car and buy a push bike.

Ash.

Originally posted by torana_mad

If you think you can get away without putting one on (or want to chance it) then why pay $$$$ for one.(though i dont see the point in it to get one only to gut)

Aslo if your the type to worry about the environment then dont drive or even sell the car and buy a push bike.

Ash.

So everyone that owns a car and doesn't care about the environment should have no cat then? I feel that we should at least try and prevent as much environmental damage as we can, and if that means using a cat, then we should do it. Choosing to run without a cat for a few kws is just not right in my eyes.

Originally posted by KamikazeR33

a high flow cat should give u the same power as a gutted one or none at all

i was using a straight through pipe for a bit on the '33, when i got a 4" high flow cat i didn't notice any difference in power output.... and people driving behind me weren't passing out. :) :)

I tried to post this at TAFE, but the computer screwed up. And a few people have already posted...

BUT. What I wanted to write at the time...

I think the attitude really really sucks on this. I wouldn't count me as a Greenie at all.

The removal of a cat is just plain stupid, and isn't going to be doing any of us any favours. The modified car scene is already tainted as it is without giving the local powers that be another reason to crack down on us.....All for a few kilowatts of power which I bet you couldn't even notice.

The cat, sa far as I understand, is there in an effort to change the raw exhaust gas to something which is alittle less harsh and can fliter back into the air as cleanly as possible. Tell me, how offen have you been pissed off with a car in front spewing rotten gas onto you and your car ? Why join them.....

If your off to the racetrack, yeah sure fit the pipe to bypass the cat...But for street use, when the car is going to burn most of its fuel.....I can't see a cuase for not having a cat....geezz you can even get high flow cats!!!

........That was my ramble..

NO CAT=DUMB.

ANDREW

It's one thing to go on about the stupidity of running without a catalytic converter, but how often does the average Joe check or replace a tired cat'?

Under ADR 37-00 your cat' is required to last 80,000km or 5yrs, whichever occurs first! How many cars on the roads in OZ would've had a cat' (or cat's) changed in their lifetime? Unless it’s totally stuffed & the honeycomb has collapsed into small bits you’d probably never know it wasn’t doing its job, unless the smell becomes MORE noticeable.

It’s my guess that apart from the performance automotive market & the EPA nobody else really thinks a hoot about the condition of their cat'!

An ineffective or blocked/damaged cat' is about as good as no cat' at all, worse in fact, 'cause it's not doing much for the environment OR the engine!.

My 2.2c

Note: NZ’ers aren’t legally required to run a cat’, so watch out on the East Coast when the wind’s really strong from that direction :)

You're right on the money there mate... Any car with more than 5 years on the clock is more than likely going to have a cat that isn't very effective at blocking all the noxious gasses coming out the back of their cars...

How many people do you know that actually change em? My last car was a camira with 200,000kms on it, still running the original cat! Tell me that wouldn't have been stuffed!

:)

matt

Originally posted by whatsisname

It's one thing to go on about the stupidity of running without a catalytic converter, but how often does the average Joe check or replace a tired cat'?

Under ADR 37-00 your cat' is required to last 80,000km or 5yrs, whichever occurs first!     How many cars on the roads in OZ would've had a cat' (or cat's) changed in their lifetime?  Unless it’s totally stuffed & the honeycomb has collapsed into small bits you’d probably never know it wasn’t doing its job, unless the smell becomes MORE noticeable.

It’s my guess that apart from the performance automotive market & the EPA nobody else really thinks a hoot about the condition of their cat'!

An ineffective or blocked/damaged cat' is about as good as no cat' at all, worse in fact, 'cause it's not doing much for the environment OR the engine!.

My 2.2c

Note: NZ’ers aren’t legally required to run a cat’, so watch out on the East Coast when the wind’s really strong from that direction :)

Andrew: YOUR A DIRTY GREENY! ;)

Have u seen the internal matrix of a cat? In essence it makes the exhaust gas cover a surface area of a football field! That can't be helping performance!

To protect the environment form all the non-cat people of the world i shall smoke one less cigarette a day!

werd, peace, respekt, out!,

Cheers,

Captain Planet!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...