Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I need to disconnect battery to reset ecu.

my question is which terminal do you disconnect first?

+Ve or -Ve first?

would I need to disconnect both in order for the whole car to open circuit?

any safety precautions when do so?

Car battery provide 12V power right? instead of 240V at home! so if any thing goes wrong, i wont become a :ghost: right!!! :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41260-how-to-disconnect-battery/
Share on other sites

lol.. no you won't go toasty..

Always best to disconnect the positive first and leave the ground to provide an earth. Soon as you disconnect the positive the power will be disconnected.

When putting it back connect the ground first, then positive.

It may make some sparks when you connect back the positive nerminal, but its generally ok.

yeah always take negative off first, that way there is no ground to get the power out...

if you undo the positive, there is a chance of grounding the spanner from the positive terminal to the body of the car which will create a circuit and end up going back to the negative side of the battery... bad

if you disconnect the negative side, then you can't create a circuit...

if you just want to disconenct the battery, just one terminal is enough, no need to take both off... unless you are removing it or charging it etc...

I have just finished the reset the ecu and took it for a drive! BEAUTIFUL, I have yet to take it for a long drive. Tommorrow, if all goes good, I will make a new thread about it. Any thanks all... I have removed both terminals! man, the job took 1 hour plus cause my amp is fixed to the back wall! have to removed that to access the battery!

when you disconnect the one side press the brake pedal a few times to discharge any power. the ecu can keep the settings in memory and the car will have enough power for about 12 hours to survive without the negative connected. the old school way was to remove the negative and leave it overnight but the quick way is to disconenct it and press the brake pedel, this will use any left over power in the system

  • 6 years later...

when you disconnect the one side press the brake pedal a few times to discharge any power. the ecu can keep the settings in memory and the car will have enough power for about 12 hours to survive without the negative connected. the old school way was to remove the negative and leave it overnight but the quick way is to disconenct it and press the brake pedel, this will use any left over power in the system

You'd need to turn your ignition to on before pressing the brake pedal though because brake lights don't come on with no key in the ignition I don't think?

You'd need to turn your ignition to on before pressing the brake pedal though because brake lights don't come on with no key in the ignition I don't think?

You don't need to do this, + they probably knew this back in 2004 too nyaanyaa.gif

You don't need to do this, + they probably knew this back in 2004 too nyaanyaa.gif

HAHA! i really really need to start reading how old a thread is that i'm replying to. done this a few times now just using search. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...