Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Plz let it be in english ,I just got a 1999 Nissan Gloria Ultima from Japan and everything is in Japanese, giving me headaches to navigate thru most stuff.I am in love with this car,just that part of trying to figure out those buttons and the radio is what is a pain.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, Does anyone have that manual i've been hearing so much about? I have a 2004 cedric and cant figure out these buttons if it was to save my life!!! Can someone send it to me as well as anything else that may be helpful? thank you all in advance! My address is [email protected]

Hi all, Does anyone have that manual i've been hearing so much about? I have a 2004 cedric and cant figure out these buttons if it was to save my life!!! Can someone send it to me as well as anything else that may be helpful? thank you all in advance! My address is [email protected]

email sent.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, just bought a Y34, and wondering if its possible to get a copy of this manual? [email protected]

Cheers

sending through now.

just a plug:

Myself and some other are collecting lots of info on Y34's on a different forum. Part numbers, aftermarket options, DIY's and model information.

jump on http://www.zeitakuvip.com/forumdisplay.php?9-How-to-s-amp-Tutorials

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

BurtoN86, thank you for getting this whole manual translation going, you are a legend! Leroy well done for keeping the infor flowing!

I am enjoying my cedric but i dont have a manual for it, and have no way of adjusting stuff! The mpg is quite heavy though, i suspect something is not right perhaps in the tranmission because when I drive in manual it does not go further than gear number 3! Also intermitently the revs are too high but if i pull off, switch off and get it started again then the revs will be back to normal, any ideas as to what could be wrong guys and if there is a quick fix.

I want to replace transmission fluid, does it take normal ATF?

I am so glad to meet other Cedric owners, will you also please send me the English translation to [email protected]

Edited by carvinezw

I am enjoying my cedric but i dont have a manual for it, and have no way of adjusting stuff! The mpg is quite heavy though, i suspect something is not right perhaps in the tranmission because when I drive in manual it does not go further than gear number 3! Also intermitently the revs are too high but if i pull off, switch off and get it started again then the revs will be back to normal, any ideas as to what could be wrong guys and if there is a quick fix.

I want to replace transmission fluid, does it take normal ATF?

I am so glad to meet other Cedric owners, will you also please send me the English translation to [email protected]

If the car is sluggish and doesnt change gears (always in gear 3, manual or auto), and there is an AT Check light on the dash, the gearbox is in limp mode and something is wrong.

Manual control is very unresponsive even when working properly. So are you able to run through any of the gears in manual? does it change in auto-mode? Is the car set in Snow-mode or Fast-mode? (theres a small switch next to the shifter.

for normal 4-speed auto (RE4) a Dex III (3) oil is fine, or Nissan matic-D.

file sent.

Hopefully ill get a chance to re-write the translation document. its pretty poor.

Great see so many people finding the English translation doc for Y34 so useful!

All Y34 owners, jump on zeitakuvip.com for all the helpful info on what these cars require in terms of servicing, oil, parts etc.

It's a great community on there with like minded VIP owners :)

Hi, new member here. I've had a 1999 Y34 Cedric for a couple of years now and I think the time is right to request a copy of the Y34 Manual in English!! If one could be emailed to me at [email protected] I would be eternally grateful. Thanks in anticipation. Oh, and I must say it is great to see that there are many Y34 owners out there. I've only ever seen one since I've had mine. Lloyd.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...