Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Umm slight "modifications" are required. I'll post photos up of me doing it step by step to show you what's required.

Once Gerard sources this pressure plate. Apparently they are becoming a bit harder to find these days. Other wise I'll have to go to a Mitsubishi pressure plate and i'll have to make some stepped dowels for the flywheel.

Thanks man :) Here's another small update:

I've 99% completed my fixed back seat mount. I used a bride rail for an N15 and used 2 pieces of 5mm flat bar to make an 'adapter plate' to bolt the side mounts for my Pro 2000 onto, anyway here's a couple of photos.

All that has to be done is 4 holes need to be drilled for the side mount rails to be mounted to the adapter plates.

Here's a photo of the Bride rail as it is:

20130502_160142_zps767cb020.jpg

Then with the adapter plates:

20130502_160008_zps6c920f11.jpg

I had to counter sink the bolt heads to get the heads flat (I'm using countersunk socket head cap screws)

20130502_160100_zps149f7e8a.jpg

Thought I'd finish my bush/collar job. So here's the finished project:

20130506_154024_zpsd258fc35.jpg

I fitted them up this afternoon, there was a tiny bit more vibration, but on a positive note it has made the gear shifts everywhere in the rev range really smooth.

20130506_154336_zpse861184c.jpg

I designed the bushes so that they would have plenty of crush on the nylon washer.

20130506_155651_zpsf71b186a.jpg

On another note Gerard from PAR just called to tell me that my solid center clutch is now ready to go. So the short ratio (4.83:1), LSD gearbox will be back in next week smile.gif

Pretty keen to get the box back in.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update time:
Received my clutch today, so ripped the gearbox out and took the flywheel to a local clutch place to be machined. It'll be done first thing tomorrow morning :)

Pictures of the new PAR Solid Center Clutch:
20130516_200445_zps8f6ec42b.jpg

20130516_200502_zps1b414d3f.jpg

Gearbox and clutch are back in. Feels great to have the LSD back again. The final drive is perfect for a VE on the street. You could definitely go a shorter ratio if you didn't do any highway driving. The clutch is anything but brutal. It probably has a smoother, more predictable engagement point with a nicer pedal feel. Also shifting is more effortless, overall I'm very happy.

  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of a photo dump, been doing a little bit on the car over the past few days.

Pics will explain all:

20130601_100016_zps9e9585e6.jpg

20130601_100133_zps9716dac8.jpg

A big thanks to a good friend of mine Dean for the hand made carbon fiber sheet. (the perks of being in the Airplane industry I guess :P)

20130601_100224_zps4276075b.jpg

The throttle linkage tube is 90% complete, I had to use an adjustable reamer and reamed out each throttle linkage pivot as the tube I had was 12.1mm, whereas the OEM BMW one was 11.95mm

20130601_100239_zpsec544389.jpg

20130601_100321_zps63410ec9.jpg

20130601_100338_zps6c5fbf24.jpg

20130601_100408_zpsa5865ced.jpg

20130601_100430_zps09b2752a.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Went to the drags today, ran a best time of 13.97 with a shit house launch lol. I'll post a video up later, the launch is quiet embarrassing though lol!

Still getting used to the new clutch, it's great to shift with, a little more tricky to launch though :P

So I weighed the car while I was at the drags :)


It weighed in at 1085kg, that was the car on a small diet and 3/4 of a tank of fuel (no carpet or back seats or spare tyre, jack etc still has all the sound deadening and the rest of the interior)

I'm around the 85kg mark, so with me in it and a full tank of fuel you could say it would be close to 100kg heavier.

So around the 1185kg mark with me in it and a full tank of fuel.

Lol it has alot less power than your skid pig though too ;)

Gotta try and compensate some how haha.

;) True! But still a little rocket :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...