Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You should be changing the fluid first and going from there.

A R34 GT-R isn't a light car, and with more power - the stock rotor SIZE is not really adequate for heat dissipation with prolonged use circuit or heavy street/tarmac (5min circuit or a 15min hill run). People IMO waste money spending on expensive stock rotor/pad sizes over doing a D2/KSport brake upgrade which generally costs the same (if you sell brembo's off, you actually profit).

I don't know how you would drive in the hills but if it's anything like what I would do, you are certainly being quite harsh. I would see similar oil/water temps on a hills run as i would after doing 4-5 laps of a circuit based event. So i doubt the brakes would be too far off the mark either :thumbsup:

I will have to disagree with you ash as I am using std size rotors and std brembos on my 33gtr and with the right combo they are fine with circuit use

10-15min session at eastern creek and Wakefield with PMU rotors and club racer pads and no brake fade at all

B-spec pads and same rotors "spirited" driving and and little brake fade due to lower temp rating of pad, but still pulled the car up when I wanted too

Suppose depends on the power and what not.

With 340rwkw DBA5000s and Ferrodo DS3000 - brakes didn't last as long as I would like.

Combine that with the DS3000 making mince meat out of a rotor given they are track only pad :)

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly .

My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned off and it has got into the pads.

After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced.

Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly .

My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned of and it has got into the pads.

After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced.

Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

Still haven't gotten an answer whether the protective coating was cleaned off before use. Another factor is how you actually use your brakes, it is possible to ride the brakes too much and put excessive heat in to them.

OP said the brakes were smoking. fluid fade can never do that.

It is either:

* not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid

* pads/discs were overheated. get better ones. I think it was identified above that the pads are at the crappy end of the mu range?

Suppose depends on the power and what not.

With 340rwkw DBA5000s and Ferrodo DS3000 - brakes didn't last as long as I would like.

Combine that with the DS3000 making mince meat out of a rotor given they are track only pad :)

The club racer pads are good on rotors plus the scr pro rotors seem to last a long time

I used this combo on a 350awkw full weight r33gtr

I'm comfortable with this set up and happy with the performance

* not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid

You didn't mean clean with brake fluid :woot: you mean brake cleaner. Brake fluid, oil etc, ruins pads. Throw the pads if they're contaminated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...