Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dude i would like to see the scales for both machines ofcoarse cast is weaker. As engineers when you put a testing force on something you need to properly replicate, what sort of side impact would you get from that motion. Cast is very good at compressive forces better than what forged steel is good at tensile forces. but the main point of this discussion is to show people that thes wheels are not that bad for a dialy driver or maybe light track work. By no means was this thread started to create conflict as this is not the point of SAU.

im contemplting closing this thread not because im backing down but its just a time bomb. I would still like to maintain the SAU mateship who knows one day ill meet you maybe on the track or wherever and prolly smoke you out with my copy wheels and still be able to shake your hand after that. not spitting due to past experiences.

you didnt say 2nd hand genuine you said cheap crappy wheels. the prices for new product will never be the same as a used if its the same item, in a few cases where that could happen is with collectors wheels but i cant see why that would happen with something still in production.

"which is only there because there are people willing to buy there stuff, if no one bought them, it wouldn't exist, and the genuine market wouldn't be strangled" im afraid your one of them even though you dont want to accept it like I do. if no cheap "$20 crappy wheels" existed Rays and all them reputable wheels companys would make a lot more

what the hell are you on about?

A: it doesn't need to be the same price, if 2nd hand wheels cost 1/16th of the price of new wheels, no one would buy new wheels, if they are 4/6th of the price, a lot of people would rather buy new.

B: cheap wheels will always exist, there is nothing ethically wrong with cheap wheels, they are just shit quality. it is ethically wrong when the cheap wheel is deliberately replicating a more expensive wheel in order to steal the market that the genuine brand has built up over years of selling a quality product, building reputation, marketing (often through sponsoring and supporting racers etc), R&D, trial and error, all which costs huge $$ and is what powers innovation.

and for the record, the wheels i buy in Japan will get melted down if i don't buy them, my broker literally gets the same in scrap alloy as he sells them to me for, so he scraps what i or he doesn't use.

im contemplting closing this thread not because im backing down but its just a time bomb.

not a ticking bomb, but it definitely has backfired. there are more true facts and educated opinions against ROTA's in here than for them, so a thread that was meant to support ROTA's is now just another thread in the long line of them which just shows how shit they are.

Dude you don't even make practical sense have you calculated and noticed 4/6 of 4000 or whatever. If you argue with a fool you will not win he will beat you because he is more experienced.

really? you're now debating the practicality of my 100% hypothetical example as the basis of your argument?

WOW

what the hell are you on about?

A: it doesn't need to be the same price, if 2nd hand wheels cost 1/16th of the price of new wheels, no one would buy new wheels, if they are 4/6th of the price, a lot of people would rather buy new.

B: cheap wheels will always exist, there is nothing ethically wrong with cheap wheels, they are just shit quality. it is ethically wrong when the cheap wheel is deliberately replicating a more expensive wheel in order to steal the market that the genuine brand has built up over years of selling a quality product, building reputation, marketing (often through sponsoring and supporting racers etc), R&D, trial and error, all which costs huge $$ and is what powers innovation.

and for the record, the wheels i buy in Japan will get melted down if i don't buy them, my broker literally gets the same in scrap alloy as he sells them to me for, so he scraps what i or he doesn't use.

While I agree with what you say, end of the day rota's or cheap 'new' wheels will always have a market regardless if they copy a design or have there own, alot of people don't want to pay over 2k for a set of wheels that only sees street, I dont see the problem with this at all and I dont know why anyone would, guys who have the money and who want the best will still buy 4k advans, there will always be a market for good wheels.

As I mentioned earlier I've have cheap wheels before, and never had an issue. Even the enkei rpf1 (which I'll prob end up buying) are only a cast wheel and I know for a fact that they can shatter like rota's, richos 33 when he stacked at sandown looked like a rota fail pic, the whole outer edge of the rim peeled of.

I think you need to relax with this anti cheap wheel stuff, not having a go but its like your brainwashed into thinking that only jdm stuff is good and everything else is evil, its not that black and white unfortunently.

Edited by eightsixboy

While I agree with what you say, end of the day rota's or cheap 'new' wheels will always have a market regardless if they copy a design or have there own, alot of people don't want to pay over 2k for a set of wheels that only sees street, I dont see the problem with this at all and I dont know why anyone would, guys who have the money and who want the best will still buy 4k advans, there will always be a market for good wheels.

As I mentioned earlier I've have cheap wheels before, and never had an issue. Even the enkei rpf1 (which I'll prob end up buying) are only a cast wheel and I know for a fact that they can shatter like rota's, richos 33 when he stacked at sandown looked like a rota fail pic, the whole outer edge of the rim peeled of.

I think you need to relax with this anti cheap wheel stuff, not having a go but its like your brainwashed into thinking that only jdm stuff is good and everything else is evil, its not that black and white unfortunently.

B: cheap wheels will always exist, there is nothing ethically wrong with cheap wheels, they are just shit quality. it is ethically wrong when the cheap wheel is deliberately replicating a more expensive wheel in order to steal the market that the genuine brand has built up over years of selling a quality product, building reputation, marketing (often through sponsoring and supporting racers etc), R&D, trial and error, all which costs huge $$ and is what powers innovation.

As I mentioned earlier I've have cheap wheels before, and never had an issue. Even the enkei rpf1 (which I'll prob end up buying) are only a cast wheel and I know for a fact that they can shatter like rota's, richos 33 when he stacked at sandown looked like a rota fail pic, the whole outer edge of the rim peeled of.

As everyone who supports genuine wheels have mentioned earlier, expensive doesnt mean they dont break, who are you kidding? Have seen COUNTLESS TE37s crack, but u are still dodging the fact they are ethically wrong by copying the success of other companies

too many torques...?

Not much info except it was on a honda civic doing track work

Not much info except it was on a honda civic doing track work

must have clocked something proper, as it's totally out of round/centre as well... that would have vibrated like a mofo after the damage (if it ran at all, and didn't foul bodywork)

Depends on your definition of cheap wheels, would you call rpf1's cheap crap? Or Varrstoens? You can't really compare forged wheels to cast and expensive to cheap, they both have a market.

With Rota copying big brands why does it matter, big budget track cars or guys with plenty of cash will still buy the expensive stuff, its not like know one is buying them know because they can get rota's or whatever, rota have really just taken the market away from buying second hand jap wheels, not new.

As everyone who supports genuine wheels have mentioned earlier, expensive doesnt mean they dont break, who are you kidding? Have seen COUNTLESS TE37s crack, but u are still dodging the fact they are ethically wrong by copying the success of other companies

Not much info except it was on a honda civic doing track work

Thats why alot of guys wont buy new te37's, why spend so much when you can get a knock off for an 8th of the price. I'm not for or against cheap/expensive wheels but I think regardless of what guys on here say or what they buy there will always be companies copying big brands, end of the day you buy what you can afford, and with me that would be 2nd hand te37's :action-smiley-069:

Depends on your definition of cheap wheels, would you call rpf1's cheap crap? Or Varrstoens? You can't really compare forged wheels to cast and expensive to cheap, they both have a market.

With Rota copying big brands why does it matter, big budget track cars or guys with plenty of cash will still buy the expensive stuff, its not like know one is buying them know because they can get rota's or whatever, rota have really just taken the market away from buying second hand jap wheels, not new.

i don't use enkei's as although their casting process is reasonable, they generally preference lightweight over strength a little more than i'd like, so although they are reasonably strong for their weight, they still aren't strong. Good for a lot of cars which are primarily concerned with unsprung weight and are happy to write off wheels as they bend them, but for me i need to know mine will take a bump and at worst i'll just have to take to them with a sledgie.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...