Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I would get scat again but I can't find anyone that has them? Anyone know? Thats why I'm looking at these two,

Goals is for a daily driven rb25 with around 400+hp here and there, no drift use ATM will see the 1/4 mile maybe twice and a circite run here and there,

There are some small design differences but at that power level anything with the correct tolerances and half decent material strength (stock or better) will be fine. If those well known brands actually have the right dimensions for the RB then any will be fine (I tend not to trust the ability of Americans in general to measure metric)

Both Scat and Nitto are world class brands with long reputations.

For that power level I would just use stock rb26 rods

+1

For 500hp, stock ones are proven time over.

If saving money on Rods lets you spend elsewhere on a better turbo/manfold/porting etc - then that's by far a better way to be spending on the cost/gain scale

If I didn't already buy bearings, crank and rods I would of built a rb30 bottom but already spent $1000

Also I bought some

Nitto rods just to be on the safe side

What turbo does everyone think? I want it snappy and responsive... Gt3076r?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...