Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before I commit to compliancing myself I think it'll be best to check out my Car when I get it today.

But at this stage I fail to see what is so hard about it....!..?...as long as I can find out exactly what parts I need and where to get them :rofl:

I have now performed 4 fairly major engine transplants in my time, SR20DET / FJ20ETs etc into places there not suppossed to be, and had them all licensed.

Welding an Intrusion bar, fitting seatbelts, should be a walk in the park!

But like I said i'll wait and see today :P

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

No wories mike, I'll pull the door trims off this weekend have a look see as to whether I want to do it myself, if so I'll buy some Intrusion bars, I can grab some for you if you like also..?

BTW, took my car to weighbridge today, which is something you'll need came in at 1520kgs, costs $10 I used a place called Bulkwest on the corner of Stock and Russell rd Spearwood.

I think theres one on Gnagara rd for NOR people.

Welding an Intrusion bar, fitting seatbelts, should be a walk in the park!

You also need to fit approved side intrusion bars that can be signed off, I am Trade Certified in Mig and I dont do the bars, I also wont buy the ready made ones as they dont fit properly.

We have 5 cars to do and I will get them all done at Jap Parts as they are the best I have seen done here in WA.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok.....

Put my car over the pits today.

In WA it costs 50 odd bucks, this gets you only 'one' go...not two as it used to be (another money grabbin Gov scam!)....$150 if a SEVS car (I know this because they tried to charge me it)

This bit of compliancing / licensing process is going to change dramatically for everyone no matter what state your in, as your Pit experiance is pretty much directly effected by the inspector you get (Some things dont change)

For me I got one hell of an old Miserable barst*d that I dearly wanted to punch in the head, especially after a few remarks about the age of my vehicle and why I would want one as most people sell cars at 15years because there 'Heaps of Sh*t', and a few other surly ****y remarks.

Anywho he took all of 5 mins looking at it 2 was spent looking for the engine number, 1 was spent trying to enter and exit the vehicle (old prick!) the other 2 he checked all lights, checked fuel filler neck, looked underneath and got me to go lock to lock on steering. That was it, didnt check seatbelts, tyres or placard, rear child restraint points etc.

(Basically I think he just went with what was on the engineers report)

Still failed my car due to not having an approved imobilzer fitted (Has car alarm) so have to take it back tommorow and quewe for another 30mins to pay another $50! to get licensed.....I HATE THE PITS!.

I saw your car at Raj's it look quite tidy, you should of paid the higher fee as it was a 15 year import, SEVS is the same as New cars at $54, they dont know what to charge as it depends on who you get.

They ask who signed it off and depends on who signed it depends on how hard they look, I have photos of one car the has small box tubing for side intrusion bars with one bit sliding into the other and then Centre Punched to stop it sliding, they were not impressed.

Yes Raj said you were down there :rofl:

And your right is is a very helpfull guy...there should be more like him in the buisness :rofl:

I Managed to sneak my car thru pits again today without paying second fee!...and it passed.

Forgot to take receipt of Payment for my vehicle to the licensing centre however, and after 45mins of sitting and waiting to be served was told it is imperitive this is with you or they wont license it (Proof of ownership-Had everything but that! :rofl: )

So now have to wait 'another' day :rofl:

You need certain belts to pass on the front which is a tag at the bottom of the belt saying ALR VW.

Rear need to be Lap Sash not just sash like most come with including RX7 and 300Z.

Nissans are cool they have front ALR-VW belts on 300Z's and DR31's I have done 1986 cars with no need to replace, not sure on 30's.

But Toyota dont have them on even 92 model cars and Mazda didnt have the good belts on Series 5 RX7's.

ALR-VW or ELR-VW???? with regards to seat belts?

  • 3 weeks later...

I still don't get this. As somebody said before, the requirements for 15yr compliance are for the ADRs.. the Australian design rules, so I don't understand why each state should have different requirements. I sent an email to a Victorian compliancer and he called me and said that it would be better to have the car complied in Brisbane when it arrives as it works out to be a good $400 dollars cheaper. Why would it be cheaper in Brissy??

Dunno, but my dad got a quote for complying his '90 Merc in QLD for $850 (with a NSW eng. Cert.). The cheapest i could find in Sydney was $1500. His broker accidently sent the car to Syd instead of Bris as he asked for; and even with car freight to Bris it works out alot cheaper...

Something to do with the fact that the QLDers have been doing it longer than most other states??

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...