Jump to content
SAU Community

There Are No Grey Imports Anymore.

joe2548

By joe2548,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

joe2548 Enthusiast

joe2548

Posted
Posted

Hey,

What has happened to the Japanese Import Scene?

There was a lot of cheap s13's, 180's, 32's, gtst's that were being imported, where are they now?

why don't ppl bring over a bunch just for drift cars?

The cheapest s13's are going for 4g... thats auto ca18de with 100km on clock.(prob 200km)

for the same price you can buy an r33 gtst.(in poor looks) where's the logic in that?

and where are all those much loved drift cars with dents in every panel?

they'd make a sick rally car.(don't ask about susp) If you have one I want it... so what do you think, why can't there be an import of 200 s13's/r32/r33s just for drift machines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413305-there-are-no-grey-imports-anymore/
Share on other sites
xntrq Veteran

xntrq

Posted
Posted

Because people want to know what goes in their car from every bolt to turbo. or perhaps that no importer would bring in a car that has no real market to it, pre built by randoms anyway let alone they have been trashed hard.

Also the laws of compliance etc. is more strict now.

I don't actually know, but that's my general idea.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Shipping/Importing costs mean that a car you might only pay $2000 for - ends up being over $4000 landed/complied. And before you ask - you can't bring in a complete car without the intention of compliance <--- that's not 100% true, but for the sake of what you are asking/discussion, that's how it is.

Problem is then businesses need to make money - so no-one will then pay the money for a $2000 car that now costs $5500 now are they?

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

^that

and all the ones that were landed 5-10 years ago when S13's were the rage are now trashed, thrashed, defected off the road, in ditches or in parts. they're a 20yrd old car that is no longer desireable so anything that hasn't been looked after is worth more in parts than they are on the used market - so they just end up in junk yards.

it's no different to any other car - it's like saying 'why don't we see VL's on interceptors any more.

*LOACH* Veteran

*LOACH*

Posted
Posted

^that

and all the ones that were landed 5-10 years ago when S13's were the rage are now trashed, thrashed, defected off the road, in ditches or in parts. they're a 20yrd old car that is no longer desireable so anything that hasn't been looked after is worth more in parts than they are on the used market - so they just end up in junk yards.

it's no different to any other car - it's like saying 'why don't we see VL's on interceptors any more.

16j30k8.jpg

SVL08801.png

On topic...hang on what was the topic again...just got all distracted by the beauty of SVL088....oh yeah imports. The 15 year rule, which allowed older imports into Australia with less restrictions and costs to comply, was dropped a few years ago. This has made a huge difference to what is being imported nowadays.

skygo2xs Contributor

skygo2xs

Posted
Posted

It's probably also the fact there are just not many silvia's, 180sx etc around in Japan anymore. I think alot of the cars are harder to find now which is partly contributed to the natural disaster in Japan early 2011, along with the tragic loss of life, thousands of cars were destroyed as well.

joe2548 Enthusiast

joe2548

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On topic...hang on what was the topic again...just got all distracted by the beauty of SVL088....oh yeah imports. The 15 year rule, which allowed older imports into Australia with less restrictions and costs to comply, was dropped a few years ago. This has made a huge difference to what is being imported nowadays.

here's mine... still unsure about selling it. I'm ubying my r33 back off my brother so will prob use gbox/engine in the gtst... will see.

vlturbo.jpg

Edited by joe2548
*LOACH* Veteran

*LOACH*

Posted
Posted

Le sigh.

Paul, I dunno man.

I can't tell if I'm into VL wagons or not.

Got any pics with roof racks on?

Sorry for the temporary hijack. Here are a few pics Josh, I don't have many pics with roof racks because it isn't my thing.

Roofracks1.png

Roofracks2.png

Roofracks3.png

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...