Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, had my SAFC wired up and took it down to Unique Autosports to have it tuned. On its base run the car only managed a pathetic 120.8rwkw (down almost 11rwkw from its previous) and was leaning out fairly badly, about 13:1AFR on stock maps. SAFC was adjusted to increase fuel by 10% from 3000rpm-5000rpm and 3% at 6000rpm (12.6AFR) and the car gained 2.8rwkw :(. Got the car booked in for a smoke test at Unigroup Engineering to check for vacuum leaks, changed fuel filter today, will drop in a Twin Turbo 300ZX pump and get fuel pressure checked over the weekend. Kinda weird that the car had lost so much power yet still trapped 95-97mph at WSID only 3 weeks beforehand with nothing changed since then. Any other idea's as to why it could be running so lean?

would you even feel the difference of 11kw.. could of been some lower octane fuel or the dyno, hows the fuel pump?

definitely need some turbo action to do that beast some justice. :yes: ive driven an NA that was much better than a twin turbo though so make sure its not clapped out.

Edited by SliverS2

Its an NA and they usually run 11.5:1AFR stock so 13:1 is a huge difference on a stock ecu. Also i'm currently the 2nd fastest NA 300ZX on Aus300zx so its definately not "clapped out".

Its an NA and they usually run 11.5:1AFR stock so 13:1 is a huge difference on a stock ecu. Also i'm currently the 2nd fastest NA 300ZX on Aus300zx so its definately not "clapped out".

you should be making more power at 13:1 than 11.5:1 unless it is pinging it's head off and the ecu is backing the timing off

you should be making more power at 13:1 than 11.5:1 unless it is pinging it's head off and the ecu is backing the timing off

This listen to this. You want to be as close to 14.7:1 as you can without pinging and compromising timing.

This listen to this. You want to be as close to 14.7:1 as you can without pinging and compromising timing.

Actually, no you don't.

14.7:1 will provide a perfect stoichiometric burn, ie, all fuel is used, and all oxygen is used.

15.4:1 is a good mixture for cruising on.

12.0 to 12.5:1 has been shown numerous times to be the AFR that an engine will produce it's most torque from.

At 12.5 :1 you can really hammer the timing it and get it producing maximum combustion pressure at top dead centre rather then when running 14.7:1 where it makes maximum combustion pressure after top dead centre.

Its an NA and they usually run 11.5:1AFR stock so 13:1 is a huge difference on a stock ecu. Also i'm currently the 2nd fastest NA 300ZX on Aus300zx so its definately not "clapped out".

If you're running an AFM, clean it with CO Contact cleaner.

Check your air filter too.

Make sure you're running the same oil type as last time (throw in some fresh oil with a fresh filter!)

Check your TPS is set right and sending the correct values.

Check your coolant temp sensor is reading correctly. (voltage VS temperature check)

Pull your injectors and have them cleaned and flow tested.

Have you check your fuel pressure is still good?

Is your cat all okay?

This listen to this. You want to be as close to 14.7:1 as you can without pinging and compromising timing.

As mbs206 said, you don't want to go as lean as 14.7:1. However, at 13:1 it should still be making good power, but if it is tuned to be at 11.5 then it is probably pinging and the ecu backing the timing off

Actually, no you don't.

14.7:1 will provide a perfect stoichiometric burn, ie, all fuel is used, and all oxygen is used.

15.4:1 is a good mixture for cruising on.

12.0 to 12.5:1 has been shown numerous times to be the AFR that an engine will produce it's most torque from.

At 12.5 :1 you can really hammer the timing it and get it producing maximum combustion pressure at top dead centre rather then when running 14.7:1 where it makes maximum combustion pressure after top dead centre.

hmm this is interesting, I'll have to do some reading on this. Is this for all NA engines or does it noticeably change engine to engine

that is for most NA engines. to put this into perspective, the stock ecu on the missus SSS pulsar (natro sr20) runs around the high 11:1 mark in the mid section of the rev range and drops to about 11:1 at high rpm. NA's can run a fraction leaner at WOT than turbos can, but not that much.

just like turbos, natro cars still run between 14:1 and 15:1 at cruise via the o2 sensor

hmm this is interesting, I'll have to do some reading on this. Is this for all NA engines or does it noticeably change engine to engine

for petrol piston engines.

Specific engines will change slightly depending on design, but mainly the above.

Ah ok I always thought NA's could run a lot leaner than turbos. I suppose the added compression and timing makes up for that.

You can run it leaner, the difference is, lean is not where the power is made.

Once you start tuning with an SAFC you will find you want to adjust your timing as well. You could use an SITC if you can find one or if Nistunes work on N/A you would be better to do that.

Few things done, did a dodgy fix on the Vacuum leak till i can sort some stock Intake pipes out and dropped a Twin Turbo 300ZX Pump in yesterday and took it for a quick drive tonight, Injector Duty Cycle was stable(use to get random spikes) and car felt a bit sluggish in comparison to before so i'm guessing the AFR has lowered back to stock(plus the SAFC adding more fuel in) but can't confirm till i get a wideband on there.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...